Broderie Anglaise Socks
By B. Devan Steiner Broderie Anglaise (bro-duh-REE ahn-GLEHZ), or English Embroidery, is the name for the stitch pattern that gives these socks their distinctive look. The pattern is worked in 8- stitch repeats over either 64 or 72 stitches. The long stitches are worked by inserting the working needle between 2 stitches 2 rows below the working stitches and then drawing up a knit stitch over the stitches that have already been worked.
Materials
Yarn: 350-440 yards of Fingering weight (depending on length of foot/calf). Sample knit with Voolenvine Yarn's Wolke (80% super wash merino, 10% nylon, 10% cashmere) in the "Dirty on Purpose" Colorway. Note: in general, it is best to use a yarn with a bit of nylon in it when knitting socks as it provides extra strength and durability to the yarn, especially if the base is a softer material, such as merino wool or alpaca). Needles: US 1.5 (2.5mm) circular needles (for magic loop) or DPNs, or size needed to obtain gauge. Gauge: 36 sts per 4 inches in pattern, 34 sts per 4 inches in stockinette.
Note on construction
The sample sock was knit using the Fish Lips Kiss heel technique, developed by Sox Therapist. As this is her technique, I will not be explaining it here—for more information, please visit the Ravelry project page (http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/fish-lips-kiss-heel). The pattern costs \$1.o0 and is definitely worth it. Copyright B. Devan Steiner & Francofille Knits 2015. For personal use only. For those who prefer a reinforced or gusset heel, instructions for my favorite one will be provided in the pattern below.
Abbreviations
k = knit p= purl k2tog = knit two together ssk = slip slip knit (slip both stitches as if to purl) kllong = insert right needle 2 rows below the working row into the space between the two decrease stitches; knit one stitch, puling the loop up loosely onto the right needle. sl1p = slip one stitch purlwise. p2tog = purl two together
Instructions
CO 64 or 72 sts using the longtail cast-on or another appropriately stretchy cast-on. Work a klp1 ribbed cuff for 1" (12 rows in gauge) or to desired length. Once cuff is desired length begin the Broderie Anglaise stitch pattern. (Note: Rows 2, 3, 6 and 7 will have fewer stitches than originally cast on.) Broderie Anglaise stitch pattern: Row 1: knit around Row 2: \*k4, k2tog, ssk, repeat from \* Row 3: knit around Row 4: \*k4, kllong, k2, kllong, repeat from \* Row 5: knit around Row 6: \* k2tog, ssk, k4, repeat from \* Row 7: knit around Row 8: \*kllong, k2, kllong, k4, repeat from \* Work pattern until calf is desired length. The sample was knit with 6.5 repeats of the stitch pattern. Fish Lips Kiss Heel: at this point, turn to the FLK Heel pattern by Sox Therapist, if that style of heel is desired. Note, the front/top of the sock will continue to be worked in the Broderie Anglaise pattern, while the bottom will be worked in stockinette. Slip stitch heel flap: Once calf is knit to desired length, divide stitches in half--the first 32/38 stitches will become the top of the foot, the second 32/38 stitches will become the heel and bottom of the foot. The first half of the stitches will remain unworked until the heel is turned. Knit in pattern to the 33rd/39th stitch (the beginning of the second half of the stitches) Row 1 (RS): sllp, p2, \*k1,sllp, repeat from \* until three stitches remain, k3; furn Row 2 (ws): sllp, k2, p to end of row; turn Row 3: sllp, p2, \*sllp, kl, repeat from \* until three stitches remain, k3; turn Row 4: sllp, k2, p to end of row; turn Repeat these 4 rows until heel measures 2.5" or desired length, ending witha Rs Turning the heel: Row 1 (ws): sllp, p16/22, p2tog, p1, turn (12 sts remain on the L needle) Row 2 (RS): sllp, k4/10, k2tog, k1 turn (12 stitches remain on the L needle) From here, continue to sllp, k/p across until you come to the gap between the slipped stitch from the previous row and the unworked stitches (there will be a gap between these two stitches). Depending on whether this is a wS or RS row, p2tog or k2tog with the slipped stitch and the unworked stitch—both stitches on either side of the gap—then kl/pl and turn. Keep doing this until all heel stitches have been worked. You should end on a Rs row.
Instep:
Row 1: Pick up and knit 1 stitch for every row of the heel flap, work Broderie Anglaise pattern across the stitches from the top of the foot, pick up and knit 1 stitch for every row on the second side of the heel flap, k to end of the row (note: the end of the row is now the edge of the heel--the end of the row created when turning the heel; I like to keep all heel and instep stitches on one side of the magic loop and the stitches from the top of the foot on the other side of the magic loop. This means that Rows will begin and end in the middle of one side of the magic loop—it may help to place a stitch marker at this point). Row 2: knit until 3 sts remain on instep side of needle, k2tog, k1, knit top of foot in pattern, kl, ssk, knit to end of row Row 3: knit across all heel and instep stitches, knit top of the foot in pattern Repeat Row 2 and Row 3 until 64/72 sts total remain Foot: Knit top of the foot in pattern, bottom of the foot in stockinette, until the foot of the sock (from the bottom of the heel) is 1.75"-2" less than the total length of the foot. The top of the foot should end on either a Row 4 or Row 8 of the Broderie Anglaise pattern.
Toe Shaping:
Row 2: (beginning of the row is the top of the foot side) \*kl, ssk, k to last 3 stitches, k2tog, kl, repeat from \* Repeat these two rows until 12 stitches remain on each needle (24 stitches total). Finish toe using the Kitchener stitch (there are excellent tutorials on both purlsoho.com and knitty.com if needed). To end up with the correct amount of yarn to complete the Kitchener stitch and securely weave in the ends, I like to wrap the yarn all the way around the toe twice and then cut the yarn 1 inch further out.
Copyright B. Devan Steiner & Francofille Knits 2015. For personal use only.
