Burgh Baby Gear Skirty and Soaker Pattern
From the book "Knitting Wool Diaper Covers from Start to Finish" by Maggie Broderick www.burghbabygear.com burghbabygear@yahoo.com
This is a great pattern for a wool soaker or skirty (soakerskirt) that can be used by knitters of all skill levels. If you're new to knitting, just relax! You'll learn a ton by using this pattern, and it's written so that you can just do the basics but not any of the extra touches. Your soaker or skirty will still be absolutely adorable! If you're more advanced, this pattern allows you to show your creativity by adding personal touches and changing details to make a unique and special soaker or skirty. The beauty of this pattern is that it can be made any size, from the tiniest newborn up to the largest toddler and beyond! This pattern is written in a conversational tone, with every step completely written out. Once you know how to do all of the steps, you can refer to the shorter version at the end of this pattern. This pattern is generally intended for personal use, but you are also welcome to seli items made from this pattern. I only ask that you please include a reference in your item's listing that you used the pattern to make your product. Thanks!
Terms and Techniques
Some terms and techniques you need to know to use this pattern are: Knit Stitch and Purl Stitch Knitting in the Round "Knitting on" Cast On (or other "stretchy" cast-on techniques) "YO" /"Yarn Over" "K2T" /"Knit 2 Together" "P2T" /"Purl 2 Together" "Increasing" "Picking up stitches" If you are not familiar with these terms and techniques, try looking them up on www.knittinghelp.com or in a basic knitting book (from the library or bookstore), or simply do a basic internet search. There is a ton of information out there in books and on the internet for us knitters! Most of all, have fun and enjoy your creative journey!
Size
Measure your child over his or her thickest diaper, and plug the numbers into the appropriate places in the instructions below'. All measurements are in inches. Write your child's measurements here: $\mathrm{A}=$ Waist (around the belly at belly-button height) $\mathrm{B}=\mathrm{Hips}$ (around the thickest part of the diaper) $C=\mathrm{Rise}$ (from the belly button, down through the crotch, and to the back at belly-button height) $\mathbf{D}=$ Thigh (around the thickest part of the thigh) $\mathrm{E}=$ (Subtract measurement D from measurement $C,$ and then divide that number by 2) If you're knitting for a child who isn't born yet or whom you can't measure just now, here's a handy chart with some typical measurements.
Gauge For worsted weight yarn: 4.5 stitches per inch, 7 rows per inch For Aran/bulky weight yarn: 4 stitches per inch, 6 rows per inch Note - I tend to be a loose knitter. If necessary, you can either adjust to my gauge by changing needle sizes, or if you're so inclined and an experienced knitter, feel free to adjust the math in the pattern to your gauge.
Materials
Worsted or Aran/bulky weight wool (not super-wash wool) - between 200 and 440 yards, depending on the desired size of the skirty) $24^{\prime\prime}$ Circular knitting needles in sizes 4 and 6, or size needed to achieve gauge (I use interchangeable needles, like Knit Picks brand from www.knitpicks. com). For very small sizes, you may need to use smaller circular needles or double-points instead. For Aran/bulky weight yarn, you will probably need larger needles (I use sizes 5 and 7 for heavier yarns). Set of four size-7 double-point needles (size-8 is better for Aran/bulky weight yarn)\* Tapestry needle Stitch markers (2) Stitch holders (2) Size J crochet hook (optional)
Knitting the Soaker/Under-soaker
Casting on:
If using Worsted weight yarn: Multiply the hip measurement (Measurement B) by 4.5. Round to the nearest number that is divisible by 4. A typical size medium/large would be 88 or 92 stitches $(20^{\prime\prime}$ hips). If using Aran/bulky weight yarn: Multiply the hip measurement (Measurement B) by 4. A typical size large would be 80 stitches ( $\mathrm{[20^{\prime\prime}}$ hips). Cast on stitches (see formula above) onto smaller-sized circular needle (I use size 4). I use the "knitting on" method, but any stretchy cast-on is fine. Place stitch marker at end of round. Work in $2\mathrm{x}2$ ribbing (K2 P2) for 8 rounds. Work eyelet row (K2 YO P2T) for one round. Knit one round. Change to larger-sized circular needle (I use size 6 for worsted weight yarn and size 7 for Aran/bulky weight yarn). (If a color change is desired for contrasting waistband, change colors now.) Continue to knit in the round until your knitting measures your "Measurement E." I sometimes add $1/2^{\prime\prime}$ or so just to be on the safe side, since kids grow so fast. Note - you may want to double check at this point that you're happy with where the top of the thigh will be on your child. A few pattern-users have noted that tall/ slim children may require a little "tweaking" for the fit of this soaker. You can always add a little length if needed at this point. Divide the number of stitches on your needle by 4. Knit that number of stitches $\%$ of the stitches on your needles), and then place those stitches on a stitch holder. You will now be working with the remaining $\%$ of your stitches, as in this picture:
Now you will be working ROWS instead of ROUNDS. You can still do this on your circular needles, just knit flat instead of in the round. Work the following set of decreases: \*K2 SSK, Knit rest of row until last 4 stitches, K2T K2 Purl one row\* Repeat the above two rows until the piece that was knit straight (not in the round) measures the size of your thigh measurement, and/or the number of stitches remaining on the needle is the same as the number of stitches on the stitch holder.
When measuring, for the thigh measurement, measure along the diagonal line that you have created by doing the decreases. If you still need more rows to reach your thigh measurement, simply alternate knit and purl rows (stockinette stitch) until you reach the desired thigh measurement. Again, I often add $1/{2}^{\prime\prime}$ or so to the measurement here, just to be on the safe side. You should now have the same number of stitches on your needle and stitch holder, as in this picture:
Grafting the Soaker/Under-soaker
Now you're ready to complete the body of the soaker/ under-soaker! Pull the flap up and around to the front so that you can graft the seam. Here is a picture of what your soaker/under-soaker should look like at this point:
Place the stitches from the stitch holder onto a needle (you can use any needles that will allow you to hold the piece like this):
Make sure that your stitches are not twisted, or else you graft won't look quite right. If you've never done a kitchener graft, just relax! It takes a little practice, but is actually very simple, and you will be good at it in no time! Using your tapestry needle and a long strand of yarn, set up your kitchener graft by pulling your yarn through the first stitch on the bottom needle as if to purl, and then through the first stitch on the top needle as if to knit. Leave a tail at the end so that you can weave it in later. Now that you are properly set up for the kitchener graft, follow the following steps until you reach the other end of the seam and no stitches remain: Pull yarn through first stitch on bottom needle as if to knit. Pull that stitch off of needle. Pull yarn through next stitch on bottom needle as if to purl. Leave that stitch on needle. Pull yarn through first stitch on top needle as if to purl. Pul that stitch off of needle. Pull yarn through next stitch on top needle as if to knit. Leave that stitch on needle. The trick is pulling your yarn just right - not too tightly and not too loosely. Hold the work steady with your left hand and work with your right. Just pay attention to which direction your yarn is going, and say this little mantra, "Knit, Purl, Purl, Knit," and you'll be done in no time! Here is how your soaker/under-soaker should look now:
Knitting the Soaker/Under-soaker Cuffs
With your crochet hook (or just your knitting needle if you're able), pick up stitches all around the edge of one of the leg holes. The number of stitches you pick up should be roughly equal to 5 times your thigh measurement. Knit one round. Then knit in K2 P2 ribbing for 4-6 rounds, depending on the size of the soaker/under-soaker (4 rounds for smaller sizes, and 6 rounds for larger sizes. Bind off loosely in pattern.
If your finished project was a soaker, congratulations! You're all done! If your finished project is a skirty, please continue on to learn how to attach the skirt.
Adding the Skirt
Now you're ready to move on to the part that will make your skirty so sweet and feminine for your special little girl! Picking up Stitches for the Skirt:
Lay the soaker/ under-soaker flat on a table, with the back facing you. Locate the first row of stockinette stitch, just under the eyelet holes. Using your crochet hook, begin picking up stitches in the middle of the first row of stockinette stitch, and placing the stitches onto your circular needle.
Here's how it will look once you have picked up all of the necessary stitches:
Knitting the Skirt:
Knit three rounds
Knit increase row (Increase once every 12 stitches as you knit the round). You can do any type of increase you prefer (see Www.knittinghelp.com), but the KRL /"knit right loop" is my favorite because it is the least visible increase in this case. (You may end up with extra stitches at the end of the round, and that is fine. Just knit those stitches and then continue in the pattern above.) Continue working the above two steps until your skirt reaches the desired length. I typically stop when the skirt almost reaches the bottom of the soaker/under-soaker (when the skirty is laid flat on the table). Skirt Hem: Work four rows of seed stitch (K1 P1). If you have an odd number of stitches at this point, you can continue in K1 P1 for all four rounds. If you have an even number of stitches at this point, simply alternate rounds with K1 P1 and then P1 K1 for the four rounds. Bind off in seed stitch.
Making the Drawstring
I usually crochet a simple chain using a double strand of yarn. How long you want the ties to hang is up to you (I thread it through as $\mathrm{~I~go},$ and determine the length by eye). Double knot both ends of the tie when you are done, and for extra safety, secure the drawstring to the skirty at the back by sewing it with a tapestry needle and more yarn. Other options for drawstrings include I-cord, braided drawstrings, twisted drawstrings, or simply a couple of strands of yarn. I think that a double strand of crochet looks and feels the best, and it works up very quickly. Instructions for making an I-chord (a very popular option) can be found at www.knittinghelp.com). If you have an odd number of eyelet holes, simply skip one hole with the drawstring, and stitch the hole up with a tapestry needle.
Optional Touches
Optional Ruffled Edge on Skirt: Using your crochet hook, pick up each stitch of the bottom of the skirt and work a double-crochet stitch three times into each stitch. Once you get all of the way around the skirt, bind off your final crochet stitch and weave in ends securely. Optional Ruffled Edges on Leg Holes: The same procedure used for the skirt-edge can be used to make a decorative ruffled edge on the leg holes. Be sure to crochet loosely enough, so as not to make the leg holes too small for the measurements. Optional Changes to the Fit: Babies come in all shapes and sizes. If there is a large difference between your waist and hip measurements (more than 2-3 inches), you may want to do aditional shaping to get the perfect fit. Simply use your waist measurement instead of your hip measurement when choosing how many stitches to cast on. Then space increases evenly throughout while knitting in the round to reach the desired hip measurement. Doing all of your increases in the first couple of rounds will result in a smaller waist and bigger body in general. Spreading increases gradually over all of the rounds will result in more of a graceful " pear-shaped" body. Optional Changes to Skirt-style: The directions for the skirty above produce the classic " A-line" look. Experimenting with different techniques will allow you to come up with various other styles. For example, try attaching the skirt a bit lower and doing the increases very quickly to achieve a flouncy ruffle instead of a full skirt. Also wait to do increases unti you are halfway through knitting the skirt, and then do them more quickly, to achieve more of a "tulip-style" skirt. You are only limited by your imagination! One very popular option is to create a pleated "cheer skirty." You can do this right after attaching the yarn for your skirt by using the following steps: Pleated "Cheer Skirty” Option: Knit three rounds as you normally would for the A-line skirty. K2 P2 for one round (if you end up with an odd number of stitches, simply do an increase or two so that your knit and purl rows will line up as in $2\mathrm{x}2$ ribbing.) K1, increase 1 into the next stitch, P2; continue for entire round Knit 2 rounds as usual. K2, increase 1 into the next stitch, P2; continue for entire round Continue doing increases in the same manner until you reach your desired fullness of the skirt. Then continue knitting and purling in the same pattern without increases until you reach your desired skirt-length. Bind off in the pattern. Do not do a different stitch (such as seed stitch) for a skirt-hem, but just continue the pattern throughout until you bind off. Note - a variation on the pleated cheer skirty style can be achieved by increasing both into the knit and purl sections. This will make an extremely full and twirly skirt. This version creates even triangle-like shapes for the knitted sections. See www.knittinghelp.com for info on doing increases that match on both sides, so that your pleats look nice and neat. I like the "KRL" /"Knit Right Loop" and "KLL"/"Knit Left Loop" pair of increases for making pleats. Let your imagination run wild - the possibilities for variations on the pattern are endless!
Detachable Skirty Option: I'm still experimenting with this idea, but it's definitely. possible to create a skirty with separate pieces for the skirt and undersoaker. Instead of picking up stitches for the skirt (after knitting the undersoaker), simply start the skirt separately by knitting a slightly shorter waistband than the undersoaker (6 rows instead of 8) with corresponding eyelet holes. Knit the skirt and make the drawstring as in this pattern, and then use the drawstring to attach the skirt to the soaker. I've seen other skirties on the market that use buttons to attach the skirt. If you think of another wonderful option for detachable skirties, please let me know! Skirted Longies/Shorties/Capris: Skirts can be added to longies, shorties, and capris, giving them an adorable, feminine touch. Simply add the skirt to pants made with either the Burgh Baby Gear Longies and Shorties Pattern or any other pattern.
Short Version of Skirty/Soaker Pattern:
Once you've gone through all of the steps in the pattern and learned the basics, you can use this handy short version the next time you knit some woolies.
Size
Measure your child over his or her thickest diaper, and plug the numbers into the appropriate places in the instructions below. All measurements are in inches. Write your child's measurements here: A = Waist (around the belly at belly-button height) 八 $\mathbf{B}=$ Hips (around the thickest part of the diaper) $C=$ Rise (from the belly button, down through the crotch, and to the back at belly-button height) $\mathbf{D}=$ Thigh (around the thickest part of the thigh) $\mathrm{E}=$ (Subtract measurement D from measurement $C,$ and then divide that number by 2)
For worsted weight yarn: 4.5 stitches per inch, 7 rows per inch
For Aran/bulky weight yarn: 4 stitches per inch, 6 rows per inch
Knitting the Soaker/Under-soaker
Casting on: If using Worsted weight yarn: Multiply the hip measurement (Measurement B) by 5. Round to the nearest number that is divisible by 4.5. A typical size medium/large would be 88 or 92 stitches( $20^{\prime\prime}$ hips). If using Aran/bulky weight yarn: Multiply the hip measurement (Measurement B) by 4. A typical size large would be 80 stitches $(20^{\prime\prime}$ hips). Cast on stitches (see formula above) onto smaller-sized circular needle. Place stitch marker at end of round. Work in $2\mathrm{x}2$ ribbing (K2 P2) for 8 rounds. Work eyelet row (K2 YO P2T) for one round. Knit one round. Change to larger-sized circular needle Continue to knit in the round until your knitting measures your "Measurement E." Knit $1\%$ of your stitches and place them on a stitch holder to begin working in rows (not rounds). Work the following set of decreases: $\mathbf{\cdots}\mathbf{K}2$ SSK, Knit rest of row until last 4 stitches, K2T K2 Purlonerow\* Repeat the above two rows until the piece that was knit straight (not in the round) measures the size of your thigh measurement, and/or the number of stitches remaining on the needle is the same as the number of stitches on the stitch holder. If necessary, work in stockinette stitch until you reach the desired thigh measurement.
Grafting the Soaker/Under-soaker
Pull the flap up and around to the front so that you can graft the seam. Place the stitches from the stitch holder onto a needle. Set up and perform kitchener graft.
Knitting the Soaker/Under-soaker Cuffs
Pick up stitches all around the edge of one of the leg holes. The number of stitches you pick up should be roughly equal to 5 times your thigh measurement. Knit one round. Then knit in K2 P2 ribbing for 4-6 rounds, depending on the size of the soaker/under-soaker (4 rounds for smaller sizes, and 6 rounds for larger sizes. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Adding the Skirt
Pick up stitches, starting and ending in the middle of the first row of stockinette stitch, and placing the stitches onto your circular needle. Knit three rounds Knit increase round (Increase once every 12 stitches as you knit). Continue working the above two steps until your skirt reaches the desired length. Work four rows of seed stitch (K1 P1). Bind off in seed stitch.
Finishing
Create and secure drawstring, and weave in all ends securely. Voila!
