COLD SWEDISH WINTER WELLY SOCKS GEORGE WHITE
A pair of welly socks, with a cable cuff which wraps over the top of the boot, to keep all the heat in. The socks are designed to fit over the top of other socks and be spacious enough to wrap the trouser leg into. Very warm, and they also reduce the amount of movement when walking in wellies. The leg tapers down from welly top circumference to a narrower ankle. The foot part of the socks is largely based on A Classic Sock Pattern by Nancy Bush, but more spacious, with a grafted toe ending, and uses five double pointed needles throughout. Nancy's estimate for foot length is used here, and seems always to Workwell. The pattern is the first I've written, and is offered for free. To the best of my knowledge it is correct, but if you feel there are any mistakes, please let me know via Ravelry and I will correct them.
ABBREVIATIONS
st = stitch st st = stockinette stitch (K in the round) K = knit P = purl RS = Right Side of work sl = slip stitch (Pwise unless stated otherwise) rem = remaining tog = together dec = decrease K2tog = K2 together (dec) tbl = through back loop SSK = sl 1 Kwise, sl 1 Pwise, K2tog tbl (dec) slKpsso = sl 1, K1, pass sl st over K st (dec). C4B = sl next 2 sts Pwise onto a cable needle and hold at the back of the work, K2, then K2 from cable needle.
SIZE
The length of the leg and feet can be adjusted to suit. The leg circumference and foot width of this first pattern suit my men's Hunter welly boots. I'll try to write with a more general pattern soon.
YARN
4x 50g Rowan Felted Tweed DK or equivalent weight.
NEEDLES
5x 4mm (USA 6) double pointed needles (dpns) Cable needle Embroidery needle
TENSION
24 sts and 32 rows = 10cm x 10cm st st, worked in the round. CABLE CUFF Cast on loosely 70 sts, divided onto four dpns as (21, 14, 21, 14) sts, to aid knitting the cable cuff. Cable pattern Rows 1-5: (P3, K4) 10 times. Row 6: (P3, C4B) 10 times. These 6 rows form pattern. Continue in pattern until 24 rows. Flip work over. LEG Leg is worked in st st only (K in the round). Next 17 rows: K to end.
Leg shaping
Alternate K2tog/SSK decs along centre back leg as follows: Next row: K2tog, K to end. Next 3 rows: K to end. Next row: K to last 2 sts, SSK. Next 5 rows: K to end. Last ten rows form dec pattern, repeat pattern 3 more times. 62 sts. Next row: K2tog, K to end. Next 2 rows: K to end. Next row: K to last 2 sts, SSK. Next 4 rows: K to end. Last eight rows form dec pattern, repeat pattern 4 more times. 52 sts. Continue in st st without decs until length of work up to cuff top matches boot length from top of heel to boot top. K13, turn work.
HEEL FLAP
Next row: sl 1, P25, turn work. The 26 sts on the current needle will next be worked flat in a classic heel stitch for 26 rows. Place rem 26 sts on one needle for instep. Heel Stitch Next row: (sl 1, K1), 13 times, turn work. Next row: sl 1, P25, turn work. These two rows form the heel stitch pattern. Repeat pattern until heel flap has 26 rows, ending ready to start a RS row. Next round: K to end. TOE Decrease round: Needle #1: K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1. Needle #2: K1, SSK, K to end. Needle #3: K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1. Needle #4: K1, SSK, K to end.
TURN THE HEEL
Repeat these last two rounds until 32 sts rem, then use decrease round only until 16 sts rem. Finally, K4. The heel turn is a series of short rows. K13 (to middle of row), K2, slKpsso, K1, turn work. Next row: sl 1, P5, P2tog, P1, turn work. Next row: sl 1, K to within 1 st of gap, slKpsso, K1, turn work. Next row: sl 1, P to within 1 st of gap, P2tog, P1, turn work. Last 2 rows form heel dec pattern. Continue pattern, always working tog 2 sts on either side of gap until no sts remain.
THEHEELGUSSET
The heel gusset joins the heel to the foot, and has a set of decs that will make the foot circumference equal to that of the ankle. Knitting starts from the end of the base of the foot, on an empty needle, with RS facing. Needle #1: Pick up and K15 along rightside of foot on new needle, composed of 13 sts into the heel's slip-stitch selvedge and 1 st at either end to avoid holes. Needle #2: K26 along instep on new needle. Needle #3: Pick up and K15 along rightside of foot on new needle. Needle #4: K13 along base of foot on new needle Shaping the gusset Decrease round: Needle #1: K to last 3 sts. K2tog, K1. Needle #2: K to end. Needle #3: K1, SSK, K to end. Needle #4: K to end. Next round: K to end. Repeat these two rounds until 52 sts rem.
Casting off
Redistribute rem 16 sts equally onto two parallel dpns - top and bottom. Cast off by grafting (Kitchener stitch) with a thick embroidery needle.
FOOT
FINISHING
TIPS
When working in the round on dpns, it's a good idea to knit the end two stitches on each needle that little bit firmer, to avoid slack stitches. Over next round, redistribute sts so that there are 13 sts on each of the four needles, and so that needle #1 starts at the centre-line of the bottom of the foot and needle #3 starts at the centre-line of the top of the instep. Sew in loose ends thoroughly and spray to block Continue in st st until foot measures 5.5cm (2.25 inches) less than desired natural foot length.
