TARGET ACQUIRED
DRADIS Mitts Designed by Dale Hwang (djinnj) for the April 2010 BSG FPB Cylon War games - with thanks to Sacajawea610 for the DRADIS idea and Sammimag for test knitting.
MATerIaLs -
$*_{100\mathrm{g}}$ of DK to worsted weight yarn. $^{*}\mathrm{A}$ small amount of light blue or white yarn for optional embroidery \*Yarn needle for weaving in ends and optional embroidery \*Double pointed needles (or magic loop, etc) in US#6 needles or size to get gauge for desired size. $^{*}\mathrm{A}$ length of scrap yarn for the aferthought thumb gusset, something smooth is best.
\*Stitch markers if desired. When using dpns, the needles can serve to mark the sections of the pattrn. A note on pictures. This pattern is for a pair of the black mitt.The grey mit was the prototype and is very slightly different; afirst generation mitt, if you will.It is included in the pictures because the stitch pattern is easier to see in the lighter colored yarn. SIZING - Sample fits a 6in wrist and was knit up to 8st/in in klp1 ribbing, blocked. To determine the target gauge, go for 0.5-lin of negative ease when measuring un-stretched ribbing compared to one's wrist circumference. So, a 6in wrist has a target circumference of 5-5.5in. 40st divided by 5 is 8st/in. This pair of mits was designed to be as level a playing field as possible. Fit is adjusted by gauge so every mit should have the same umber of sttchs it regardess of sizeFor those not partiipating n the war game close ftting mit canbe achieved by using thinner yarn, increasing the negative ease up to 2in, and adding plain rows to make up for the lost length.
ABBREVIATIONS -
$\mathbf{k}\#=\mathrm{knit}$ #stitches $\ensuremath{\mathbf{p}}\#=\ensuremath{\mathbf{p}}\ensuremath{\mathbf{u}}\ensuremath{\mathbf{r}}\mathrm{]}$ # stitches sI# $=$ slip # stitches, purlwise unless being passsed over adjacent stitches. $\mathbf{x}2=$ work portion in parenthesis or brackets twice. $\mathbf{rib}=$ work in established ribbing pattern over the given number of stitches. inc $=$ increase a knit stitch in any preferred manner that does not leave a hole. inc purlwise $=$ increase a purl stitch in any preferred manner that does not leave a hole. $\mathbf{k2tog=}$ right slanting decrease; knit 2 together. $\mathbf{ssk}=1$ eft slanting decrease; slip 2 stitches knitwise one at a time and knit them together. $\bf{s l2\ k l}$ psso $=$ centered double decrease; slip 2st as if to k2tog, knit next stitch, pass slipped stitches over that just knit stitch.
PATTERN -
ARM: Cast on 40st r1) plk1 ribbing for 1lst ending on a purl; k1, (p2, k2) x2; plk1 ribbing for 1lst ending on a purl; (k2, p2)x2, k1. r2) rib 11; (k2, p2)x2, kl; rib 11; k1, (p2, k2)x2. repeat for 33r, ending with a r1
HAND:
r34) [rib 11; k3, p1, kl, pl, k3] x2. r35) [rib 11; k9] x2. repeat r34 and r35 once. r38) sl1,rib 9, k2tog, inc, k3, inc purlwise, $_{\mathrm{k}1}$ , inc purlwise, k3, inc,ssk] x2. (note - the first stitch becomes the last stitch of the row and is worked into the final decrease, any marker would move left one stitch.) r39) [rib 9; k1, p4, k3, p4, k1] x2. r40) [rib 9; k5, pl, kl, p1, k5] x2. r41) [rib 9; k13] x2. repeat r40 and r41 once. r44) sl1, [rib 7; k2tog, inc, k5, inc purlwise, $_{\mathrm{k}1}$ , inc purlwise,k5, inc, ssk] x2. r45) [rib 7; kl, p6, k3, p6, k1] x2. r46) [rib 7; k7, p1, kl, pl, k7] x2. r47) [rib 7; k17] x2. repeat r46 and r47 once. r50) sll, [rib 5; k2tog, inc, k7, inc purlwise, kl, inc purlwise, k7, ine, ssk] x2. r51)[rib 5; k1, p8, k3, p8, k1] x2. r52) [rib 5; k9, pl, k1, pl, k9] x2. r53) [rib 5; k21] x2. repeat r52 and r53 once. r56) sll,[rib 3; k2tog, inc, k9, inc purlwise, kl1, inc purlwise, k9, ine, ssk] x2. r57) [rib 3; kl, p10, k3, p10, k1] x2. r58)Placafehught tb guss - rb3; k1 , k, k; Wthcrap a,usng ya needle slip 7more stitches onto the scrap yarn, k3. Transfer these 6st knit in scrap ya back onto the left hand needle. With main color knit over those 6st in scrap yarn, and then continue with k6, pl, kl, pl, kl1. The scrap yarn will be removed later to provide stitches for the base of the thumb. r59) rib 3; k20, (p1, kl, p1) x2, k20. (49st) r60) rib 3; k11,pl, kl, p1,k6, (p1, k1, p1) x2, k6, pl, kl, pl, k11. r61) same as r59. r62) sll, kl, k2tog, k11, inc purlwise, k1, inc purlwise, k6, ssk, kl, p2tog, k1, k2tog, k6, inc purlwise, kl, inc purlwise, kll,ssk. r63) k2, p11, k3, p7, kl, pl, kl, p7, k3, p11, k1. r64) k13, pl, kl, pl, k7, p3tog, k7, pl, kl, pl, k12. (46st) r65) k23, pl, k22. r66) k13, pl, kl, pl, k7, pl, k7, pl, kl, pl, k12. r67) same as r65. r68) k1, k2tog, kl1, inc purlwise, kl, inc purlwise, k7, sl2 kl psso, k7, ine purlwise, kl, inc purlwise, k11l, ssk. r69) kl, p12, k3, p7, kl, p7, k3, p12. r70-74) k1p1 rib. r75) bind off in pattern.
THUMB:
Pick up 7st on the top edge and 13st on the bottom edge of the waste yarn and remove the waste yarn. The first and last st of the top edge will each have a strand of yarn passing through them. 20st With the mittright side up, join yarn to the bottom edge (the 13st) and work in the round as follows: r1) sll, k4, p1, kl, pl, k4, sl2 kwise k1 psso, kl, pl, k1, sl2 kwise k1 psso. 16st (this maintains the existing ribbing pattern). r2-4) k4, p1, kl, pl, k6, p1, k2. r5) sl1, p2, rib 5, p9. r6-10) klp1 rib 16. rl1) bind off in pattern Make 2. The mitts are completely symmetrical. There is no left or right mit shaping. Optional embellishing (not intended for the Cylon War) - Block the mitts. Put them on and mark where the curved line of the DRADIS sensor should go with some string or thread. Remove and embroider or needle felt a curved blue line where marked. Add circular motifs in green or red for fleet or enemy ships as desired.
33 75 5 - Aim well. Await Resurrection.
