by Liselotte Weller Materials: Crochet hook size $5~\mathsf{m m}$ Approx. 300 grams Kauni 8/2 or simi- lar yarn. The yarn quantity will vary by the quality of yarn you chose to work in. Crochet tension: 12 sts and $\textsf{l}8\textsf{r o w s}=$ ${10\times10}$ cm. It is important to maintain this tension as it is vital to the measurements of the completed garment. If you crochet too loosely, try a finer hook and if you crochet too tightly, try with a thicker hook to obtain correct gauge.
This pattern call for the following stitches: double crochet (dc), slip stitch (sl st) and treble crochet (tr), which you have to be familiar with. Ensure to read through the entire pattern before you commence crocheting. You can either crochet the garment as a sweater or as a cardigan. Not much is required to crochet either model, if you should desire to make one of each. The sweater is crocheted top down. In other words, you start at the neckline, continue down over the yoke and when that is completed, split the piece and crochet sleeves and body separately. Don't let this scare you, it is the easiest thing in the world and I will do my best to guide you so you end up really wanting to go on. :-) When you start the sweater, you will probably feel that the neckline is very wide but this will change at the final stage, when you are going to crochet a lace border which gathers the neckline to be a neat and sensible size. Finalizing the neckline cannot be gone into in great detail as it is completely up to you, but I will describe the border so that you are in no doubt about how to complete it. You can crochet the sweater in four different sizes. Please view chest measurements in the table on the side to find out your size. I believe you can adjust the size further by using a smaller or a larger crochet hook than called for, but you will have to experiment with that yourself, if needed. Small.. 102 cm Medium.. 111 cm Large.... 121 cm X-Large. 133 cm
Bellflower
by Liselotte Weller The sweater comprises a yoke in double crochet (dc) and when the yoke is split into sleeves and body respectively you change to crocheting lace work on the body which gives extra width to the sweater, as you can see on the photos. The lace pattern is not difficult. When you change from double crochet to the lace pattern for the body you will have to make a set-up row as follows: Ist row (set-up row): \*1 dc in next sts, skip 1 sts, 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr in next sts, skip 1 sts\*. Repeat from \* to \* and when you realize that the pattern does not add up entirely then decrease or increase to correct sts amount on next row. 2nd row (lace row to be crochet throughout on body) 3 ch, \*1 tr in dc from last row; 2 tr, 2 ch, 2 tr in ch loop\*. Repeat from \* to \*. Finish with I sl st in first dc of previous row. Remaining rows start with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch sts at beg of row.
In the photo you can see the lace pattern, which may appear confusing at first glance but I promise you, if you stick out the first 5 rows you will be home and dry and will find it as amusing as you found it difficult a minute ago. :-) by Liselotte Weller Size S (M, L, XL) Start at the neckline. Make 85(89, 98, 103) ch sts and gather to a ring if you are making the sweater. Do not gather them, but crochet back and forth throughout, if you are making the cardigan. Be careful not to twist the stitches. Crochet 7 (7, 7, 8) rows of dc. Row 8 (8, 8, 9): Inc 31 (35, 38, 41) sts evenly on row. You now have 114 (124, 136, 144) sts in total. Rows 9-15 (9-16, 9-16, 10-17): Cont in dc on yoke. Row 16 (17, 17, 18): Inc 31 (35, 38, 41) sts evenly on row. You now have 145 (159, 174, 185) sts in total. Rows 17-23 (18-24, 18-24, 19-26): Cont in dc 0n yoke. Row 24 (25, 25, 27): Inc 31 (35, 38, 41) sts evenly on row. You now have 176 (194, 212, 226) sts in total. Rows 25-31 (26-33, 26-33, 28-35): Continue in dc on yoke. The yoke is completed. You now need to split the sts for body and sleeves as follows: Crochet 27 (30, 33, 36) dc (one front piece), make 6 (6, 6, 8) ch (these sts are the armhole, skip next 34 (37, 40, 41) dc (these are held back and are the one sleeve), crochet 54 (60, 66, 72) dc (back piece), make 6 (6, 6, 8) ch (these sts are the armhole, skip next 34 (37, 40, 41) dc (these are held back and are the other sleeve), dc 27 (30, 33, 36) remaining sts (second front piece). Now you are ready to start crocheting the lace pattern which you find at the beginning of this pattern (page 2). Start with the set-up row and then continue in lace pattern until you think the sweater is long enough. It is a very good idea to try it on during the work and don't be alarmed by the wide neckline, we'li fix that in a minute. Don't forget that the lace pattern start and end a bit different if you are crocheting a cardi gan. It will be neatest if you start and end with a tr, don't be baffled, do what you think is neatest. If you want extra flow in the sweater you can make a few extra increases on the set-up row. This can, for example, be done by not skipping the extra sts every 5th time. That should give you some serious flow in the body piece. When the sweater is long and the body of the piece is completed, break the yarn. A variation can be that you stop the lace pattern some centimeters from the finished measurement and crochet a dc edge. This works really well, if you are making a cardigan which needs a dc edge to work with the dc edge on the two front pieces. by Liselotte Weller Now, you are to crochet the sleeves. I have chosen to make the sleeves as simple as possible, so they are just plain. Sleeves: Crochet the sleeves. In dc crochet the 34 (37, 40, 41) sleeve sts that were resting, corchet the additional 6 (6, 6, 8) sts at the armhole and gather to a circle. Now corchet in either dc or the lace pattern, as you wish, until the sleeves are long enough. You can either make them 3/4 length or full length, that's up to yourself. Do what you like the most. One varioation can be to crochet lace pattern on the sleeves and finish with an dc edge. Alternatively, you can crochet the sleeves in dc and finish with a lace pattern border or none at all. The choice is yours. If you are making the cardigan you need to crochet the front edges, but remember to jump down to the end of the pattern and make the neckline edge before you start these as this gives the neatest finish. For the front edges crochet dc along the edges and be aware not to pick up sts in each row as this will make the two edges too lose.
There is no exact number of sts to be gathered but for me it works best to skip every 3rd row, when picking up along the edge. Also remember to make button holes. Again, there is no exact details for this as it completely depends on your desires, but in my experience it usually works to skip 2 dc and replace them with 2 ch on the next row. Place these holes where you want the button holes to be placed. On the next row you just continue in dc over these two ch. How wide the edge should be? Well, it's up to you. I make dc 6 rows, but perhaps you would prefer something else. Be brave! by Liselotte Weller Neck edge: We have now reached the final details and need to crochet the neck edge which is crochet in the lace pattern that you are already familiar with, so this is not at all difficult.
Please notice, in the picture above there is no dc edge making it a variant that required a bit of bravery and some nifty fingers but try it, if you feel like it - decreases are required in the final lace pattern row. Crochet 2 rows of lace pattern along the neckline. And now we have reached the challenging bit because the last and final row of dc is the one that ensures that the neckline will add up. You will have to dec the sts so that the neckline will appear neat and hamonious and there is only one way to achieve this and that is by starting at the beginning sensing when to skip a sts or two to finish the neckline neatly. It worked for me to skip every 3rd sts when I crochet the final dc row, but perhaps you have to skip a few more or a few less to make a neat edge. You do not need to crochet that many sts before you will realize if you have succeded in making the edge neat. If not, you will have to rip back and start again either with more or with less dec. It's the only way, but on the other hand, you are nearly finished. Once you have succeded in making a neat neck edge all that is left is to weave in the ends, wash and dry the sweater and sew in buttons if you made a cardigan. I hope you will have fun while crochting this garment and good luck to you. :-)
Klokkeblomst
af Liselotte Weller Materialer: Haeklenal nummer 5 Ca. 300 gram Kauni eller lignende og gerne tykkere garn. Garnmang- den kan variere voldsomt afhengig af kvaliteten. Kaunien giver en meget let troje med en los hakling. Haklefasthed: 12 masker og 18 raek- $k e r=10\times10\;\mathsf{c m}$ . Det er vigtigt, at denne haeklefasthed overholdes, da den er afgorende for arbejdets faer- dige mal. Hakler du for lost, sa prov en tyndere nal og omvendt for fast, sa prov en tykkere nal. Der anvendes fast-, kaede- og stang- masker i denne opskrift, sa dem skal du vaere bekendt med. Laes helst hele opskriften igennem, inden du starter.
Trojen kan enten hakles som sweater eller som cardigan og det kraever ingen store kunstgreb at skifte mellem de to modeller, hvis du skulle fa lyst til mere end den ene troje. Trojen hakles fra halsen og nedefter. Du starter altsa med halsudskeringen, fortsetter ned over barestykket og nar det er faerdigt, deler du arbejdet og haekler aermer og bullen hver for sig. Vaer ikke spor betaenkelig ved det. Det er det letteste i verden og jeg skal prove at guide dig, sa du ender med aldrig at gide andet :-) Nar du starter trojen, vil du formentlig synes, at halsudskeringen er temmelig vid, men det retter sig, for noget af det sidste du skal gore er at haekle en monsterbort, som samler halsen til en paen og fornuftig storrelse. Dette sidste kunstgreb er det eneste, som ikke kan udpensles i detaljer, fordi det er afhaengigt af dig og dine lyster, men jeg skal beskrive det, sa du ikke er i tvivl om, hvordan du far det gjort. Trojen kan haekles i fire storrelser. Du kan se de faerdige brystmal i skemaet ved siden af. Jeg tror, at storrelsen kan vrides en smule med en storre/mindre haklenal, men det ma du selv eksperimentere med, hvis behovet er der. Small.. 102 cm Medium.. 111 cm Large.... 121 cm X-Large.... 133 cm
Klokkeblomst
af Liselotte Weller Trojen bestar af et baerestykke i fastmasker og nar baerestykket deles til henholdsvis aermer og bullen, skifter du til hulmonster, som giver den smule ekstra vidde pa trojen, som du ser pa billederne. Monstret er ikke vanskeligt. Nar du skifter fra fastmasker til monstret, kommer forst en op- saetningsraekke, som er saledes: Opsaetningsraekke: \*1 fm i naeste m, spring 1 m over,(2 stm, $_{2\mathsf{\Pi}}|\mathsf{m}$ , 2 stm i naeste m), spring 1 m over\*. Gentag fra \* til \* og hvis du opdager, at monstret ikke helt gar op med maskeantallet tager du enten ind eller ud, sa det passer i naeste omgang. Monsteraekke: 3 Im, \*1 stm ifm fra sidste rk, 2 stm, 2 Im, 2 stm i Im buen\*. Gentag fra \* til \*. Slut med en kaedemaske i forste fastmaske i forrige raekke. Denne raekke gentages til slutlengde. De resterende raekker er en gentagelse af rakken ovenfor og starter alle med 3 Im og slut- ter med en kedemaske i den 3. luftmaske du startede omgangen med.
Pa billedet kan du se monstret, som umiddelbart kan virke uoverskueligt, men jeg lover dig, at holder du ud de forste fem raekker, er den hjemme og du griner af, at du syntes det var Svaert for kun et ojeblik siden :-)
Klokkeblomst
af Liselotte Weller Storrelse S (M, L, XL) Start med halsen. Hakl 85(89, 98, 103) luftmasker og saml dem til en ring, hvis du laver sweateren. Saml dem ikke, men haekl frem og tilbage, hvis du vil lave cardiganen. Pas pa ikke at sno maskerne. Hakl 7 (7, 7, 8) rakker fastmasker. Raekke 8 (8, 8, 9): Tag nu 31 (35, 38, 41) masker ud, jevnt fordelt over raekken. Du har nu 114 (124, 136, 144) masker ialt. Raekke 9-15 (9-16, 9-16, 10-17): Fortsat i fastmasker frem og tilbage over baerestykket. Raekke 16 (17, 17, 18): Tag nu 31 (35, 38, 41) masker ud, jevnt fordelt over raekken. Du har nu 145 (159, 174, 185) masker ialt. Raekke 17-23 (18-24, 18-24, 19-26): Fortset ifastmasker frem og tilbage 0ver baerestyk- ket. Raekke 24 (25, 25, 27): Tag nu 31 (35, 38, 41) masker ud, jevnt fordelt over raekken. Du har nu 176 (194, 212, 226) masker ialt. Raekke 25-31 (26-33, 26-33, 28-35): Fortsaet ifastmasker frem og tilbage 0ver baerestyk- ket Baerestykket er faerdigt. Nu skal det deles til henholdsvis bul og cermer. Det gor du saledes: Haekl 27 (30, 33, 36) fastmasker (dette er det ene forstykke), sla 6 (6, 6, 8) nye luftmas- ker op (disse masker er aermegab, spring de naeste 34 (37, 40, 41) fastmasker over (disse gemmes og er ermerne), haki 54 (60, 66, 72) fastmasker (dette er ryggen), sla 6 (6, 6, 8) nye luftmasker op (disse masker er ermegab, spring de neste 34 (37, 40, 41) fastmasker over (disse gemmes og er ermerne), haki de sidste 27 (30, 33, 36) fastmasker (dette er det andet forstykke). Nu er du klar til at starte dit monster, sa du finder tilbage i opskriften (side 2) og starter med din opsaetningsraekke og fortsaetter herfra i monster, til du synes, at trojen er lang nok. Det kan vaere en rigtig god idé at prove den undervejs og lad vaere med at forskraekkes over den vide hals. Den ordner vi om lidt. Husk at monstret starter og slutter lidt anderledes, hvis du haekler cardigan. Det er panest, at monstret sa starter og slutter med en stangmaske, men prov dig frem. Hvis du vil have ekstra sving i trojen, kan du i opsetningsraekken tage lidt masker ud. Det kan evt. gores ved at lade vaere med at springe den ekstra masker over cirka hver femte gang. Sa far du sving, sa det basker. Nar trojen er lang nok, bryder du garnet og er faerdig med bullen. En variation kan vaere, at du stopper monstret nogle centimeter for det endelig mal og hakler en kant med fast- masker. Dette virker rigtigt godt, hvis du laver cardiganvarianten, som godt kan have brug for en fastmaskekant, som spiller sammen med den kant af fastmasker, som haekles lang forstykkerne.
Klokkeblomst
af Liselotte Weller Nu skal du i gang med at haekle ermerne. Jeg har valgt, at ermerne er enklest muligt, sa de er lige ud ad landevejen. Armerne: Nu hakler du aermerne. Du haekler simpelthen over de 34 (37, 40, 41) ermemasker, som har hvilet og sa haekler du yderligere 6 (6, 6, 8) masker over aermegabet og samler dem til en ring. Nu er det bare at haekle enten fastmasker eller evt. monster pa ermerne, til de er tilstraekkeligt lange. De kan enten vaere 3 /4 eller hellange cermer, men det bestemmer du. Prov dig frem. En variant kan vaere at hakle monster pa aermerne, men afslutte dem med en kant af fast- masker. Omvendt kan du haekle aermerne i fastmasker og afslutte dem med en monster- bort. Det er dit valg. Muligheder er der nok af. Har du valgt at lave cardiganen, skal du nu have lavet forkanterne, men husk at springe ned sidst i opskriften og lav halskanten inden du gar i gang, for sa bliver afslutningen panest. Til forkanten hakler du fastmasker langs kanten og vaer opmaerksom pa, at du ikke skal samle masker op i hver raekke, for sa bliver din forkant for los.
Der er ikke no- gen “opskrift"pa hvor mange masker du skal samle op, men det plejer at virke for mig, at springe cirka hver tredje rakke over, nar jeg samler op langs sadan en kant. Husk ogsa, at du skal hakle knaphuller. Her er heller ingen “opskrift", men kun cirkaanvis- ninger, fordi det afhaenger af dine lyster, men det plejer igen at blive pane knaphuller, hvis jeg springer 2 fastmasker over og erstatter dem med to luftmasker, der hvor knaphullet skal vaere. Pa naste rakke hakler du bare videre i fastmasker over disse to luftmasker. Hvor bred skal sadan en kant sa vare? Ja, igen bestemmer du. Jeg laver ialt seks raekker fastmasker, men maske du har lyst til noget andet.
Klokkeblomst
af Liselotte Weller Halskanten: Nu skal de sidste detaljer pa plads. Vi skal have haeklet halskanten. Den er haeklet i det monster, som du allerede nu er fortrolig med, sa det er ikke spor vanskeligt.
Vaer opmerksom pa, at der ikke er nogen fastmaskekant pa bill- edet ovenfor. Det er en variant, som kraever lidt fingersnilde og. mod, men prov det, hvis du har lyst - det kraever indtagninger i den sidste monsterrakke. Hakl 2 raekker monster langs halskanten og nu kommer udfordringen, for den sidste og afsluttende rekke af fastmasker skal vaere den, som sorger for, at din halsudskaering kom- mer til at passe. Du skal her tage masker ind fordelt sa fornuftigt, at halskanten bliver paen og harmonisk og der er ikke andet at gore, end at starte fra en ende af og fornemme hvor du skal springe en maske eller to over, for at gore halskanten paen. For mig virkede det at springe over hver 3. maske, da jeg haeklede den sidste raekke fastmasker, men maske er du nodt til at springe over flere eller faerre, for at fa en kant, som ligger paent. Du skal ikke hakle mange masker, for du kan se, om det er lykkedes. Er det ikke, ma du trevle op og starte forfra med enten flere eller faerre indtagninger. Der er ingen vej udenom, men til gengaeld er du naesten faerdig. Nar det er lykkedes er der kun tilbage at hafte ender, vaske og torre trojen og evt. sy knapper i. Jeg haber du far det sjovt undervejs og rigtig god fornojelse :-)
