The Ideal Basic Original Esign by Linda Braley: Comprehensive Knitting Instructions for a Stylish Sweater

The Ideal Basic Original esign by Linda Braley

Body Measurements

Instructions

Materials

Yarn: Alpaca with a Twist “Highlander " 45% baby alpaca/45% merino/8% microfiber/2% viscose Color#0301 6 (7, 8) Skeins x 145/yds Plus several yards of tightly spun waste yarn Needles: Two US#9 (5.5mm)(32" circ) One US#8 (5.0mm) (24"or 32" circ) ORSIZE(S)TOACHIEVE GAUGE Two decorative buttons (optional)

Gauge

Body: 3.75sts and 5 rows, per inch, in Stockinette Stitch using larger needles. Cuff: 4.00sts and 5.25 rows, per inch, in Stockinette Stitch using smaller needles. To save time, please check your gauge and read all instructions thoroughly before beginning.

NOTES:

Each size of this pattern has been test knit by separate, independent knitters to ensure clarity and accuracy. Each section for front/back, left/right has been written out in full to avoid having to work “"reversing all directions". This sweater is worked from bottom up, with sleeves worked as one piece with body. The back is worked in two sections; seamed down the center for stability. Read through entire pattern, and refer to Glossary and Tips/Hints before beginning. Instructions are for S, M, L sizes. If only one figure is shown, it applies to all sizes.

BACK (Right)

Invisible Cast On: Using larger needle CO 32(38, 42) sts using Invisible Cast On method, as follows: Step 1: Using approx 2yds of waste yarn ("WY") and crochet hook, Ch1. Holding crochet hook in right hand and WY in left hand, lay knitting needle (with point facing away) parallel to crochet hook, on top of WY. Step 2: Bring crochet hook over top. of needle to catch WY and make 2nd loop. (There is now one st on needle, and one chain on crochet hook.) Step 3: Using left hand, bring WY under needle (under tip right to left) so the needle is again resting on top of WY. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until HALF the desired # of stitches are on needle = 16(19, 21) sts. Secure WY until ready to remove. Step 4: Slide all WY sts back to other end of needle so they are properly mounted to beg working on a knit row (RS). Step 5: Start using main color ("MC") and knit one row. Place marker pin around MC and snug pin up to needle, purl one row. Knit one row. [Step 5 = 3 rows worked] Step 6: With WS facing, notice the horizontal loops along lower edge created by MC. Wyif pull up pin and place loop on LN, mounted correctly (remove pin). Purl the st. Step 7a: Purl first st on the LN. Step 7b: PU first horizontal loop of MC, place it on LN, mounted correctly. Knit it. Repeat Steps 7a and b, to last st. PU last horizontal loop of MC, place it on LN, mounted correctly. Knit it. Purl last st on LN = 32(38, 42) sts. Unsecure WY and pull to remove. Establish Reverse ST St Pattern as follows: (RS) p10(16, 20), pm, k22. (WS) p22, slip marker, k10(16, 20). Repeat last two rows 0(2, 5) more times. This establishes the varying lengths between Sm/Med/Lrg =2(6, 12) rows worked. Continue in pattern, starting as 'Row 1'. Row 1-16: work as established. Beg increases along side edge using Lifted method (see Glossary) as follows: Row 17: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 0), work rem of row. Row 18-22: work as established. Row 23: (Rs) p1, inc 1(1, 1) work rem of row. Row 24-26: work as established. Row 27: (RS) p1, inc 0(0, 1) work rem of row. Row 28: work as established. Row 29: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 0) work rem of row. Row 30: work as established. Row 31: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 1), work rem of row. Row 32-34: work as established. Row 35: (RS) p1, inc 0(1,0), work rem of row. Row 36: work as established. Row 37: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 1), work rem of row. Row 38: work as established. Row 39: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 40: work as established. Row 41: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 1), work rem of row. Row 42: work as established. Row 43: (RS) p1, inc 1(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 44: work as established. Row 45: (RS) p1, inc 1(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 46: work as established. Row 47: (RS) p1, inc 1(1, 1), work rem of row. =40(45, 51) sts Row 48: work as established. Start muitipie incs using Lapie Last Un metnoa [see Glossary]: Row 49: (RS) Sm/Med: p1, inc 1(1, 0), work rem of row. Large: At beg of row, CO 2, using Cable CO method. Work row. Row 50: (WS) work as established. Row 51: (RS) Small: p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Med/Large: At beg of row, CO 0(2, 4). Work row. Row 52: (WS) work as established. Row 53: (RS) At beg of row, CO 2(2, 5). Work row. Row 54: (WS) work as established. Row 55: (RS) Sm/Med: At beg of row, CO 2(13, 0). Work row. Large: (start sleeve cuff edging) p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 56: (WS) work as established. Row 57: (RS) At beg of row, CO 9(0, 0). Work row. = 55(63, 63) sts. Row 58-60: work as established. Start shaping sleeve cuff edge: Using Lifted method [see Glossary] for single incs, begin shaping sleeve cuff edge on RS rows as follows: Row 61: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 1) work rem of row. Row 62-64: work as established. Row 65: (RS) p1, inc 1(1,1) work rem of row. Row 66-68: work as established. Row 69: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 0) work rem of row. Row 70: work as established. Row 71: (Rs) p1, inc 0(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 72: work as established. Row 73: (Rs) p1, inc 1(0, 0), work rem of row. Row 74: work as established. Row 75: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 76-78: work as established. Row 79: (RS) Small: p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Med/Large: STOP Reverse ST St and beg working entire row in regular ST St: work as established. Row 80: work as established. Row 81: (RS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: k1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 82-84: work as established. Row 85: (RS) Small STOP Reverse ST St and beg working entire row in regular ST St: k1, inc i, work rem of row. Med/Large: k1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 86-88: work as established. Row 89: (Rs) k1, inc 1(0. 0), work rem of row. = 61(69, 69) sts. Row 90: work as established. Start shaping upper sleeve seam using Japanese short row method [see Tips/Hints] and back neck as follows: Row 91: (RS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: unknit first 4 sts placing the unworked sts on the RN. Slip next st PW onto RN. Place marker pin around the live yarn and snug the pin up to the needle on the backside (WS) of the work. Knit rem of row. Row 92: (WS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: p61. Turn. Row 93: (RS) Small: unknit first 3 sts placing the unworked sts on the RN. Slip next st PW onto RN. Place marker pin around the live yarn and snug the pin up to the needle on the backside (WS) of the work. Knit rem of row. Med/Large: Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 94: (WS) p55(57, 57). Turn. Row 95: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 96: (WS) p52(53, 53). Turn. Row 97: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 98: (WS) p48(49, 49). Turn. Row 99: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 100: (WS) p44(45, 45). Turn. Row 101: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 102: (WS) p40(41, 41). Turn. Row 103: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 104: (WS) p36(37, 37). Turn. Row 105: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 106: (WS) p32(33, 33). Turn. Row 107: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 108: (WS) p28(29, 29). Turn. Row 109: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 110: (WS) p24(25, 25). Turn. Row 111: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Shape back neck: Row 112: (WS) BO14. p5(6, 6). Turn. Row 113: (RS) Slip first stitch PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 114: (WS) p2tog. Purl rem of row closing gaps as follows:

Work the gaps (WS):

Purl to first “gap" (not pin). Slip next st (first st after the gap) onto RN. Pull up pin and mount loop correctly onto LN, remove pin. Return slipped stitch from RN back to LN. Purl the slipped st and loop tog. Repeat this process until all gaps have been worked.Purl rem of row = 46(54,54) sts. Place all sts on holder; cut yarn, leaving tails.

BACK (Left)

Invisible Cast On: (same as Back Right) Establish Reverse ST St Pattern as follows: (RS) k22, pm, p10(16, 20). (WS) k10(16, 20), slip marker, p22. Repeat last two rows 0(2, 5) more times. This establishes the varying lengths between Sm/Med/Lrg =2(6,12) rows worked. Continue in pattern, starting as 'Row 1': Row 1-16: work as established. Beg increases along side edge using Lifted method (see Glossary) as follows: Row 17: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 18-22: work as established. Row 23: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1,1), p1. Row 24-26: work as established. Row 27: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(0, 1), p1. Row 28: work as established. Row 29: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1, 0), p1. Row 30: work as established. Row 31: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0,1), p1. Row 32-34: work as established. Row 35: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1,0), p1. Row 36: work as established. Row 37: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0,1), p1. Row 38: work as established. Row 39: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1, 1), p1. Row 40: work as established. Row 41: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 1), p1. Row 42: work as established. Row 43: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1. Row 44: work as established. Row 45: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1. Row 46: work as established. Row 47: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1 = 40(45, 51) sts. Row 48: work as established. Start multiple incs using Cable Cast On method [see Glossaryl: Row 49: (RS) Work to last st, inc 1(1,0), p1. Row 50: (WS) At beg of row CO 0(0, 2) using Cable CO method. Work row. Row 51: (RS) Work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 52: (WS): At beg of row, CO 0(2, 4). Work row. Row 53: (RS) Work as established. Row 54: (WS) At beg of row, CO 2(2, 5). Work row. Row 55: (RS) work as established. Row 56 (WS): Sm/Med: At beg of row, CO 2(13, 0). Work row. Large: (start sleeve cuff edging) p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 57: (RS) work as established. Row 58: (WS) At beg of row, CO 9(0, 0). Work row. =55(63, 63) sts. Row 59-60: work as established. Start shaping sleeve cuff edge: Row 61: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1,1), p1. Row 62-64: work as established. Row 65: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1,1), p1. Row 66-68: work as established. Row 69: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 70: work as established. Row 71: (RS): work to last st, inc 0(1, 1), p1. Row 72: work as established. Row 73: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 74: work as established. Row 75: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1,1), p1. Row 76-78: work as established. Row 79: (RS) Small: work to last st, inc 1, p1. Med/Large: STOP Reverse ST St and Beg working entire row in regular ST St: work as established. Row 80: (WS) work as established. Row 81: (RS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: work to last st, inc 1, k1. Row 82-84: work as established. Row 85: (RS) Small: STOP Reverse ST St and Beg working entire row in regular ST St: work to last st, inc 1, k1. Med/Large: work to last st, inc 1, k1. Row 86-88: work as established. Row 89: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), k1 = 61(69, 69) st: Row 90: (WS) work as established. Start shaping upper sleeve seam using Japanese short row method[seeTips/Hints] andbackneckasfollows: Row 112: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem ofrow.

Shape back neck:

Row 113: (RS) BO14. k5(6,6) Turn. Row 114: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem ofrow. Row 115: (RS) Slip 1, k1, psso, knit rem of row, closing gaps asfollows:

Work the gaps (RS):

Knit to first "gap" (not pin). Pull up pin and mount loop correctly onto LN. Knit the loop and the next stitch (the first st after the gap) tog. Repeat this process until all gaps have been worked. Knit rem of row = 46(54, 54) sts. Place all sts on holder; cut yarn, leaving tails. With sts still on holder, sew center seam between Back (Right) and Back (Left) sections. Leave sts on holder until both Fronts are to the same point.

FRONT (Left)

Invisible Cast On: Using larger needle and same process as Back Right, CO HALF the desired # of sts = 11(14, 16) sts. Repeat Steps 7a and b, to last st. PU last horizontal loop of MC, place it on LN, mounted correctly. Knit it. Purl last st on LN = 22(28, 32) sts. Unsecure WY and pull to remove.

Establish Reverse ST St Pattern as follows:

(RS) p22(28, 32) sts. Row 91: (RS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: k65. Turn. Row 92: (WS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: Slip first st PW. Place marker pi around live yarn and snug the pin up to th. front side (Ws) of the work. Purl rem of row. Row 93: (RS) k58(61, 61). Turn. Row 94: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 95: (RS) k55(57, 57). Turn. Row 96: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 97: (RS) k52(53, 53). Turn. Row 98: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 99: (RS) k48(49, 49). Turn. Row 100: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 101: (RS) k44(45, 45). Turn. Row 102: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 103: (RS) k40(41, 41). Turn. Row 104: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 105: (RS) k36(37, 37) sts. Turn. Row 106: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 107: (RS) k32(33, 33). Turn. Row 108: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 109: (RS) k28(29, 29). Turn. Row 110: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 111: (RS) k24(25, 25). Turn. Continue in pattern, starting as 'Row 1'. Row 1-16: work as established Begin increases along side edge using Lifted method [see Glossary] as follows: Row 17: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 0), work rem of row. Row 18-22: work as established. Row 23: (RS) p1, inc 1(1, 1) work rem of row Row 24-26: work as established. Row 27: (RS) p1, inc 0(0, 1) work rem of row. Row 28: work as established. Row 29: (RS) p1, inc 0 (1, 0) work rem of row Row 30: work as established. Row 31: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 1), work rem of row Row 32-34: work as established. Row 35: (RS) p1, inc 0 (1, 0), work rem of row. Row 36: work as established. Row 37: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 1), work rem of row. Row 38: work as established. Row 39: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 40: work as established. Row 41: (RS) p1, inc 1(0, 1), work rem of row. Row 42: work as established. Row 43: (Rs) p1, inc 1(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 44: work as established. Row 45: (Rs) p1, inc 1(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 46: work as established. Row 47: (Rs) p1,inc.1(1. 1), work rem of row = 30(35, 41) sts. Row 48: work as established. Start multiple incs using Cable Cast On method [see Glossary]: Row 49: (RS) Sm/Med: p1, inc 1(1, 0), work rem of row. Large: At beg of row, CO 2, using Cable CO method. Work row. Row 50: (WS) work as established. Row 51: (RS) Small: p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Med/Large: At beg of row, CO 0(2, 4), work row. Row 52: (WS) work as established. Row 53: (RS) At beg of row, CO 2(2, 5). Work row. Row 54: (WS) work as established. Row 55: (RS) Sm/Med: At beg of row, CO 2(13, 0). Work row. Large: (start sleeve cuff edging) p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 56: (WS) work as established Row 57: (RS) at beg of row, CO 9(0, 0), work row. = 45(53, 53) sts. Row 58-60: work as established. Start shaping sleeve cuff edge: Using Litedmethod [see Glossary] frsingle incsbgin shaping sleeve cuff edge on RS rows as follows: Row 61: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 1) work rem of row. Row 62-64: work as established. Row 65: (Rs) p1, inc 1(1,1) work rem of row. Row 66-68: work as established. Row 69: (Rs) p1, inc 1(0, 0) work rem of row. Row 70: work as established. Row 71: (RS) p1,inc 0(1, 1), work rem of row. Row 72: work as established. Row 73: (RS) p1,inc 1(0, 0), work rem of row. Row 74: work as established. Start shaping Front (Left) neck: Row 75: (RS) p1, inc 0(1, 1), work to last 2 sts, p2tog. Row 76-78: work as established. Row 79: (RS) Small: p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Med/Large: STOP Reverse ST St and beg working entire row in regular ST St: work as established. Row 80: work as established. Row 81: (RS) Small: work to last 2 sts, p2tog. Med/Large: k1, inc 1, work to last 2 sts, k2tog. Row 82-84: work as established. Row 85: (RS) Small: STOP Reverse ST St and Beg working entire row in regular ST St: k1, inc 1, work rem of row. Med/Large: k1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 86-88: work as established. Row 89: (RS) k1, inc 1(0. 0), work to last 2 sts, k2tog. = 48(56, 56) sts. Row 90: work as established. Start shaping upper sleeve seam using Japanese short row method [see Tips/Hints]: Row 91: (RS) Small: work as established Med/Large: unknit first 4 sts placing the unworked sts on the RN. Slip next st PW. Place marker pin around the live yarn and snug the pin up to the needle on the backside (WS) of the work. Knit rem of row. Row 92: (WS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: p48. Turn. Row 93: (RS) Small: unknit first 3 sts placing the unworked sts on the RN. Slip next st PW. Place marker pin around the live yarn and snug the pin up to the needle on the backside (WS) of the work. Knit rem of row. Med/Large: Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 94: (WS) p42(44, 44). Turn. Row 95: (RS) Slip first st PW, place markerpin. Knit rem of row. Row 96: (WS) p38(40, 40). Turn. Row 97: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Row 98: (WS) p33(35, 35). Turn. Row 99: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 100: (WS) p29(31, 31). Turn. Row 101: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 102: (WS) p25(27, 27). Turn. Row 103: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 104: (WS) p21(23, 23). Turn. Row 105: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit to last 2 sts, k2tog. Row 106: (WS) p16(18,18). Turn. Row 107: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 108: (WS) p12(14, 14). Turn. Row 109: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 110: (WS) p8(10, 10). Turn. Row 111: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin. Knit rem of row. Row 112: (WS) p4(5,5). Turn. Row 113: (RS) Slip first st PW, place marker pin needle. Knit rem of row. Row 114: (WS) purl rem of row [= 46 (54, 54) sts] closing gaps as follows: Work the gaps (Ws): Same as Back Right Place all sts on holder; do NOT cut yarn.

FRONT (Right)

Invisible Cast On: (Same as Front Left) Establish Reverse ST St pattern as follows: (RS) p22(28, 32) sts. (WS) k22(28, 32) sts. Repeat last two rows 0(2, 5) more times. This establishes the varying lengths between Sm/Med/Lrg =2(6, 12) rows worked. Continue in pattern, starting as 'Row 1': Row 1-16: work as established. Beg increases along side edge using Lited method [see Glossary] as follows: Row 17: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 18-22: work as established. Row 23: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1. Row 24-26: work as established. Row 27: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(0, 1), p1. Row 28: work as established. Row 29: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1, 0), p1. Row 30: work as established. Row 31: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0,1), p1. Row 32-34: work as established. Row 35: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1,0), p1. Row 36: work as established. Row 37: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0,1), p1. Row 38: work as established. Row 39: (RS) work to last st, inc 0(1, 1), p1. Row 40: work as established. Row 41: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 1), p1. Row 42: work as established. Row 43: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1. Row 44: work as established. Row 45: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1. Row 46: work as established. Row 47: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1, 1), p1 = 30(35, 41) sts Row 48: work as established. Start multiple incs using Cable Cast On method [see Glossary]: Row 49: (RS) Work to last st, inc 1(1, 0), p1. Row 50: (WS) At beg of row, CO 0(0,2) using Cable CO method. Work row. Row 51: (RS) Work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 52: (WS): At beg of row, CO 0(2, 4). Work row. Row 53: (RS) work as established. Row 54: (WS) At beg of row, CO 2(2, 5). Work row. Row 55: (RS) work as established. Row 56 (WS): Sm/Med: At beg of row, CO 2(13, 0). Work row. Large: (start sleeve cuff edging) p1, inc 1, work rem of row. Row 57: (RS) work as established. Row 58: (WS) At beg of row, CO 9(0, 0). Work row. =45(53, 53) sts. Row 59-60: work as established. Start shaping sleeve cuff edge: Using Lifted method [see Glossary] for single incs, begin shaping sleeve cuff edge on RS rows as follows: Row 61: (RS) work to last st, inc O(1,1), p1. Row 62-64: work as established. Row 65: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(1,1), p1. Row 66-68: work as established. Row 69: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 70: work as established. Row 71: (RS): work to last st, inc O(1, 1), p1. Row 72: work as established. Row 73: (RS) work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), p1. Row 74: work as established. Start shaping Front (Right) neck: Row 75: (RS) p2tog, work to last st, inc 0 (1,1), p1. Row 76-78: work as established. Row 79: (RS) Small: Work to last st, inc 1, p1. Med/Large: STOP Reverse ST St and beg working entire row in regular ST St: work as established. Row 80: work as established. Row 81: (RS) Small: p2tog, work rem of row. Med/Large: Slip 1, k1, psso, work to last st, inc 1, k1. Row 82-84: work as established. Row 85: (RS) Small STOP Reverse ST St and Beg working entire row in regular ST St: work to last st, inc 1, k1. Med/Large: Work to last st, inc 1, k1. Row 86-88: work as established. Row 89: (RS) Slip 1, k1, psso, work to last st, inc 1(0, 0), k1 = 48(56, 56) sts. Row 90: work as established. Start shaping upper arm seam using Japanese short row method [see Tips/Hintsl as follows: Row 91: (RS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: k52. Turn. Row 92: (WS) Small: work as established. Med/Large: Slip first stitch PW. Place mark pin around the live yarn and snug the pin I to the front side (WS) of the work. Purl re of row. Row 93: (RS) k45(48, 48). Turn. Row 94: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 95: (RS) k42(44, 44) sts. Turn. Row 96: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 97: (RS) Slip 1, k1, psso, knit 36(38, 38) sts. Turn. Row 98: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 99: (RS) k33(35, 35) sts. Turn. Row 100: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 101: (RS) k29(31, 31) sts. Turn. Row 102: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 103: (RS) k25(27, 27) sts. Turn. Row 104: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem ofrow. Row 105: (RS) Slip 1, k1, psso, knit 19(21, 21) sts. Turn. Row 106: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 107: (RS) k16(18, 18) sts. Turn. Row 108: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem ofrow. Row 109: (RS) k12(14, 14) sts. Turn. Row 110: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 111: (RS) k8(10, 10) sts. Turn. Row 112: (WS) Slip first st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 113: (RS) k4(5,5). Turn. Row 114: (WS) Slip 1 st PW. Place marker pin. Purl rem of row. Row 115: (RS) knit row [=46(54, 54) sts] closing gaps as follows: Work the gaps (RS): Same as Back Left. Do NOT cut yarn. With right sides facing each other (Back right to Front right ) and holding both needles parallel (one in front, one in back), starting at beg of sleeve edge, insert tip of RN through the first stitch on the front needle knitwise (leaving stitch on LN). Continue through to first stitch on back needle entering purlwise (letting it drop off the back needle). Pull the back stitch through the front stitch, dropping the front stitch off the LN. Repeat this process until each stitch from the back needle has been pulled through its corresponding stitch on the front needle = 46(54, 54) sts. STEP 2: Starting from the sleeve edge working toward the neck, now using the live yarn, BO all sts knitwise. STEP 1: With right sides facing each other (Back left to Front left) follow same process as Back Right / Front Right.

BACKLEFT/FRONTLEFT

STEP 2: Starting from the sleeve edge working toward the neck, using the live yarn,BO all sts purlwise.

SLEEVE CUFFS (both alike)

Once upper sleeve seam is joined, with right side facing, starting at right edge of cuff, using smaller needles PU 62(72, 72) sts. Knit next row. Put all Back sts on one needle and all Front sts on separate needle, aligning per below. Join upper sleeve seams using 3-Needle BO as follows:

BACKRIGHT/FRONTRIGHT

STEP 1: NOTE: The first step is performed without using the liveyarn.

Invisible BO:

With RS facing, using tail and sewing needle: Step 1: Slip 1st st KW and return to LN point-to-point. Step 2: p2tog, draw yarn through ("DYT"), leaving both sts on LN. Step 3: Check 3'd st in on LN (should be a purl): a. slip 1 PW off needle. b. Go behind LN, between next 2 sts (a knit and a purl), DYT to the front. C. Knit into 2nd st on LN (a purl) DYT to the back. Step 4: Check 3'd st on LN (should be a knit): a. slip 1 KW off needle. b. Wyif, purl into front of 2nd st on LN (a knit) DYT to the front. Repeat Steps 3 & 4 until 2 sts rem, slip 1 (KW), p1, DYT. LeaveTail.

LAPELS (both alike)

InvisibleCast On: Using larger needle and same process as Back Right, CO HALF the desired # of sts = 14sts. Repeat Steps 7a and b, to last st. PU last horizontal loop of MC, place it on LN, mounted correctly. Knit it. Purl last st on LN = 28sts. Unsecure WY and pull to remove. Work in Reverse St st. as follows: Lapel (Left) Row 1: (RS) p to last 2 sts, k2. Row 2: (WS) knit Lapel (Right): Row 1: (RS) k2, purl rem of row Row 2: (WS) knit Work until row 132(138, 144) for each lapel. [Hint:Place marker at inner edge of lapelonrow 114(120,126) to match up with shoulder points when seaming.] Graft (or seam) lapels tog.

FINISHING

Body: Start at bottom edge, sew side and under arm seams up to cuff. Sleeve cuff:Start at the end of the cuff and work inward toward the sleeve using remaining tail from the Invisible BO. To keep the seam from showing when cuff is folded back, work two-thirds of the cuff with seam on outside, then turn sleeve cuff and sew rem of cuff with seam on inside. Fold cuff back and tack along pick-up seam to secure. Lapel: Align the grafted row (or sewn seam) to the back center seam, match edge pin(s) to shoulder seams, then start from the bottom edge and sew upwards for both sides. Weave in all ends. Lightly steam body to block to measurements. To ensure lapel maintains its natural curl, do not steam lapel. OPTIONAL:Attachdecorative button to cuff.

SCHEMATIC Finished dimensions (inches)

GLOSSARY

(RS) Knit row (WS) Purl row Reverse Stockinette Stitch: (RS) Purl row (WS) Knit row Work as established: Knit the knits; Purl the purls Live Yarn: That which is attached to the ball. Increase (Lifted method): Beg of (RS) row: Work 1 stitch in pattern. Using RN, pick up the stitch located one row below the next stitch on LN. Place on LN so it is properly mounted. Work it in pattern. End of (RS) row:Work row in pattern until 1 stitch remains on LN. Using LN, pick up stitch located two rows below the previously worked st on the RN and place on LN so it is properly mounted. Work it inpattern.

Cable Cast on (beg and end of rows)

Beg of row: Insert tip of RN into first stitch, wrap live yarn and draw new stitch through as normal, but do not remove sts from LN needle. Using RN, twist new loop slightly and place onto LN so it is properly mounted. Repeat this process until desired number of sts are cast on.

TIPS &HINTS

Before casting on, read entire pattern and highlight all figures relating to the size to be worked. The Invisible (Tubular) Cast On requires casting on with half the number of required stitches. There are many sources for this method of cast on, such as: Vogue Knitting - The Uitimate Knitting Book Reader's Digest Knitter's Handbook (Montse Stanley)

Short Rows (Japanese method):

lai nei pllo yu aiuunu uic live yalll, lut uuuyl it. marker pins should always be located on the wrong side of the work. Therefore, when working on the (RS) the pins will be located in back of needle; when working on the (WS) pins will be located in front of needle. TURN = Each row has a turning point where the work is turned without completing the row. This creates “gaps" which will be worked (closed) on the final row. Note that gaps are worked differently on (RS) and (WS) sides. Remove pins with care so as not to stretch the loop.

ABBREVIATIONS

Every effort has been made to ensure that these instructions are accurate and complete. We cannot be responsible for human or typographical errors. Best results will be obtained by using suggested yarns at stated gauge(s).Should you encounter a problem,contact yarnmaster@comcast.net.