Willy Warmer by NSFWdesigns
Materials
Approximately 25 grams/100 yards of sock weight superwash yarn. Approximately 10" of '/" elastic (optional)
Gauge
8 stitches and 11 rows per inch in Stockinette Stitch on US 2 (2.75 mm) needles
Body Measurements
Circumference measured around the cock and balls where they join the body -- where a cockring is worn: 6.0" (7.0", 8.5") Large (Extra-Large, Humongous) Measured length of erect penis along the top from base to tip (let's be honest!): 5.0” (6.5", 8.0") Large (Extra-Large, Humongous) Circumference of erect penis: 4.0" (5.0", 6.0") Large (Extra-Large, Humongous)
Finished Willy Warmer Measurements
Circumference at ribbed cuff at top of ball sack (relaxed): 5.00" (6.50", 8.00") Circumference at ribbed cuff (stretched): 9.00" (10.00", 11.00")
Length of ribbed shaft pocket (relaxed): 4.00" (4.75"', 5.50") Length of ribbed shaft pocket (stretched): 6.50" (7.50", 8.50") Circumference of ribbed shaft pocket (relaxed): 4.50" (5.00", 5.50") Circumference of ribbed shaft pocket (stretched): 4.00" (4.50", 5.00")
Fit
A good fit is important: after measuring the body parts, adjust the pattern for each part (as noted in the pattern large, extra-large, or humongous) to achieve the best overall fit.
Needles & Tools
US 2 (2.75 mm) double-pointed needles (DPNs), blunt tapestry needle, stitch markers, scissors
Abbreviations
K = Knit P = Purl Sts = stitches K2tog = Knit 2 Together: Knit next 2 sts together as one (right-slanting decrease) SSK = Slip, Slip, Knit: Slip next 2 stitches from left needle to right needle knitwise; then insert left needle into those 2 stitches and knit them together as one. (left-slanting decrease) Kfb = Knit Front and Back: Knit into both the front and back of the next stitch (increase 1 stitch)
Knit the Ribbed Cuff
Using a US 2 needle, cast on 48 (56, 64) stitches, leaving a 24" tail. Rows 1-5: \*K1, P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 6: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of row (creating a fold line) Rows 7-11: \*K1, P1; repeat from \* to end of row.
Knit the Ball Sack
Row 12: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 13: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of row. PM = Place or Pass Stitch Marker W&T = Wrap and Turn: On a right side row: bring yarn to front of work between needles, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle, bring yarn around this stitch to back of work, slip stitch back to left needle, turn work and begin purling back in the other direction. On a wrong side row: bring yarn to back of work between needles, slip next stitch purlwise to right needle, bring yarn around this stitch to front of work, slip stitch back to left needle, turn work and begin knitting back in the other direction. Row 14: Bind off 2 sts, \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 15: Bind off 2 sts, \*K1; repeat from \* to end of row. Rows 16: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Rows 17: SSK, \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before end of row; K2tog Row 18: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 19: SSK, \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before end of row; K2tog Row 20: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 21: SSK, \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before end of row; K2tog For Large Size, skip to Row 30. For Extra-Large and Humongous Sizes only: Row 22: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 23: SSK, \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before end of row; K2tog For Extra-Large skip to Row 28 For Humongous Size only Rows 24-27. Row 24: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 25: SSK, \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before end of row; K2tog Row 26: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 27: Kfb, \*K1; repeat from \* to the next to the last stitch in the row; Kfb last stitch. Row 28: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 29: Kfb, \*K1; repeat from \* to the next to the last stitch in the row; Kfb last stitch. Row 30: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 31: Kfb, \*K1; repeat from \* to the next to the last stitch in the row; Kfb last stitch. Row 32: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 33: Kfb, \*K1; repeat from \* to the next to the last stitch in the row; Kfb last stitch. Row 34: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row. Row 35: Kfb, \*K1; repeat from \* to the next to the last stitch in the row; Kfb last stitch. Row 36: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of row; cast on 2 sts. Row 37: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of row; cast on 2 sts. 48 (56, 64) stitches remain Transfer stitches to 4 US 2 DPNs, placing 12 (14, 16) sts on each DPN; join in round. Round 38: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 39: K6 (7, 8); W&T; P12 (14, 16); W&T; K16 (19, 22); W&T; P20 (24, 28); W&T; K28 (33, 38); W&T; P36 (42, 48); W&T; K18 (21, 24) NOTE: should be back at the starting pointofrounds Rounds 40-41 (for extra-large and humongous only): \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Rounds 42-43 (for humongous only): \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Decreasing Rounds: Place one stitch marker in the center of each of the four DPNs. Round 44: \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 40 (48, 56) stitchesremain Round 45: \*K1; repeat to end of round. Round 46: \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 32 (40, 48) stitches remain. Round 47: \*K1; repeat to end of round. Round 48: \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 24 (32, 40) stitches remain. Round 49: \*K1; repeat to end of round. Round 50: \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 16 (24, 32) stitchesremain. Round 49: \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 8 (16, 24) stitches remain. Round 50 (for extra-large and humongous only): \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 8 (8, 16) stitches remain. Round 51 (for humongous only): \*K1; repeat from \* to 2 sts before marker; SSK; PM; K2tog; \*K1; repeat from \* to Willy Warmer by NSFWdesigns end of needle. Repeat on remaining 3 needles. 8 (8, 8) stitches remain. Remove stitch markers. Cut yarn with 12" tail and, with blunt needle, thread tail through remaining 8 stitches. Remove stitches from needles. Pull yarn tight and weave in end on wrong side (inside the ball sack). Fold over the top ribbed cuff on the fold line and stitch it down on the wrong side (inside) the ball sack. Stretch the fabric as you sew -- to ensure that the ribbing will stretch when finished. Stitch together the two ends of the cuff from the top down to the circular opening for the shaft sock, leaving an opening on the inside to insert elastic into the cuff tube if desired. Weave in the ends on the wrong side (inside the ball sack). You now have completed the ball sack, with a round opening for the shaft pocket.
Knit the Shaft Pocket
Using 4 US 2 DPNs, pick up 32 (36, 40) stitches evenly spaced around the shaft opening in a clockwise direction -- starting and ending at the center bottom. Place 8 (9, 10) stitches on each DPN. Round 1: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Rounds 2-3: \*P1; repeat from \* to end of round. Rounds 4-5: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Continue in pattern - alternating double rows of knitting and purling until the shaft pocket measures 3.0" (3.75", 4.5") from base to tip. Measure with the ribbed fabric at rest since the ribbed shaft pocket is designed to expand (as necessary!) when worn. For Open-Ended Shaft Pocket: Round 1: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 2: Bind Off. Cut yarn and weave in end on wrong side. For Closed-Ended Shaft Pocket: Round 1: \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 28 (32, 34) stitches remain Rounds 2-3: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 4: \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 24 (28, 30) stitches remain Round 5: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 6: \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 20 (24, 28) stitches remain Round 7: \*K1; repeat from \* to end of round. Round 8: \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 16 (20, 24) stitches remain Round 9: \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 12 (16, 20) stitches remain Round 10: \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 8 (12, 16) stitches remain Round 11 (for extra-large and humongous sizes only): \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 8 (8, 12) stitches remain Round 12 (for humongous size only): \*K1; repeat from \* to last 2 stitches on needle, K2tog; repeat to end of round. 8 (8,8) stitches remain Cut yarn with 12" tail and, with blunt needle, thread tail through remaining 8 stitches. Remove stitches from needles. Pull yarn tight and weave in end on wrong side (inside) the shaft pocket. Insert optional %" elastic into the ribbed cuff tube and secure at a comfortable circumference with needle and thread to keep the willy warmer in place. To wear the willy warmer, turn the willy warmer's ball sack inside out and insert cock into the shaft pocket. Next, roll the ball sack up around the scrotum. Adjust so that all is comfortable and then wear the willy warmer in comfort and with pride! Available as a free ravelry download: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/ willy-warmer-by-nsfwdesigns Please send questions, corrections, comments and photos to NSFWdesigns@gmail.com
