十Socksertebral
These toe-up heel flap socks include tips for custom fitting. I love this method because your toe can be your swatch and there's no picking up stitches at the heel! It also greatly reduces your chance of running out of yarn. Most people are pretty flexible about cuff length, but not having enough yarn to finish your toe is universally despised. This design uses Judy's Magic Cast On, which can be found at http://www.persistentillusion.com/blogblog/techniques/magic-cast-on/magic-cast-on-2. Size: To fit foot 8" around, women's Med (approx US shoe size 7-8). Note - shoe sizes reflect length more than width and individual preferences for snugness vary.
Finished Measurements:
Unblocked - 5" cuff, 9" heel to toe, 3" cross foot, 3.25" cross cuff 5.75" toe to gusset increase beginning, 3.25" beg of gusset increase to heel 37 sts and 54 sts to 4" in stockinette stitch Blocked - 5.25" cuff, 9.25" heel to toe, 3.5" cross foot, 3.75" cross cuff 5.75" toe to gusset increase beginning, 3.25" beg of gusset increase to heel 34 sts and 54 sts to 4" in stockinette stitch Yarn: Out of Step Dyeworks Merino/nylon Sock, (80% Superwash Merino Wool, 20% Nylon); 360 yards [330 meters]/100g. Zombie Apocalypse, 1 skein. Needles: US 1.5/2.5mm or size needed for gauge and/or fit, one 32” or longer circular needle for magic loop, or 2 shorter circulars if you prefer working on 2 circular needles. Notions: 2 stitch markers for heel turn, tapestry needle, cable needle. Gauge: 34 sts and 52 rounds to 4" in stockinette stitch after blocking.
Abbreviations
C4L: Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in front of work. K2, then k2 from cable needle. C4R: Slip 2 sts to cable needle, hold in back of work. K2, then k2 from cable needle. K: knit K2tog: knit 2 together K3tog: knit 3 together LH: left hand (as in needle) M1L: Pick up running yarn between sts from front to back with LH needle, k tbl. M1R: Pick up running yarn between sts from back to front with LH needle, k through front loop. M1LP: Pick up running yarn between sts from front to back with LH needle, p tbl. M1RP: Pick up running yarn between sts from back to front with LH needle, p through front loop. P: purl P2tog: purl 2 together PM: place marker Rnd: round RS: right side SL: slip Ssk: Slip 2 sts knitwise individually, then knit these 2 sts together through back loop. St(s): stitch(es) SK2P: Slip 1 st knitwise, k next 2 sts tog, pass slipped st over. Tbl: through back loop W+T: wrap and turn WS: wrong side WYIB: with yarn in back WYIF: with yarn in front YO: yarn over
Sock (make 2)
Using Judy's magic cast on (knotless version), cast on 9 sts onto each needle. Next rnd: Needle 1: Knit. Needle 2: Knit all sts tbl.
Toe
1" increase rnd: \*K1, mlr, k to last st, m1l, k1\* twice. Repeat increase rnd until there are 17 sts on each needle Alternate increase rnd with plain rnd (knit all sts) until there are 31 sts on each needle. 2nd increase rnd: Needle 1: Knit. Needle 2: K1, mlr, k to last st, mll, k1. Continue 2nd increase rnd until there are 35 sts on the second needle. 66 sts total. Width of work should accommodate all your toes at this point.
Foot
Work beginning chart on first needle. (Proceed to regular chart when beginning chart completed.) Knit every stitch of every rnd on second needle. Work in pattern until the sock extends slightly past the highest point of the foot's arch when you try it on (see diagram on following page). Length of the sample sock was approx 6" at this point. The gusset and heel added 3.25". This stitch pattern naturally pulls in and will relax substantially after blocking. If you can fit your fist into a sock in progress, you should be able to get it over your heel when finished, though it may be a tight fit before blocking.
Gusset Increases
Continue in pattern on first (instep) needle. Begin gusset increases on second (sole) needle. Begin gusset increases on an odd round of chart. Rnd 1: Instep needle: Work chart. Sole needle: K1, mlr, k to last st, mll, k1. Rnd 2: Instep needle: Work chart. Sole needle: Knit. Repeat Rnds 1 and 2 until there are 55 sts on the sole needle. End after completing Rnd 1. Work across instep in pattern one more time. Make note of which chart rnd you just worked on instep in order to resume in pattern after heel. It should be an even round of chart. End ready to work heel flap on sole needle.
Heel
Sole needle: K17, pm, k to last 17 sts, pm, k16. 1 st left. Slip 1 st from each end of sole needle to instep needle. 53 sts on sole needle. 29, 31, or 33 sts on instep needle depending on which even row you stopped working. Heel turn Turn work so purl side of sole (now called heel) needle is facing. (WS) SL 1 purlwise wyif, p to 2 sts before second marker, mlpr, p1, w+t. (RS) SL 1 (wrapped st) purlwise wyib, k to 2 sts before marker, m1l, k1, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyif, p to 4 sts before second marker, mlpr, p1, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyib, k to 4 sts before second marker, mll, k1, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyif, p to 6 sts before second marker, mlpr, pr, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyib, k to 6 sts before second marker, mll, k1, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyif, p to 8 sts before second marker, mlpr, pr, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyib, k to 8 sts before second marker, m1l, k1, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyif, p to 10 sts before second marker, mlpr, pr, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyib, k to 10 sts before second marker, mll, k1, w+t. SL 1 purlwise wyif, p to 12 sts before second marker, mlpr, pr, w+t. SLl 1 purlwise wyib, k to 12 sts before second marker, m1l, k1, w+t. Heelflapsetup: (WS) SL 1 purlwise wyif. P across, picking up wraps, to 1 st before marker, p2tog (removing marker and picking up wrap). Turn. (RS) SL 1 purlwise wyib. K across, picking up wraps, to 1 st before marker, SSK (removing marker and picking up wrap). Turn. Heel stitchheelflap: Row 1 (WS): SL 2 purlwise wyif. P to 1 st before gap, p2tog, turn. Row 2 (RS): SL 2 purlwise wyib. \*K1, sl 1\* to 3 sts before gap, k2, SSK. Repeat these two rows until no sts remain after gap, ending on a RS row. Work the first 3 sts of instep in established pattern (k2, p1), then slip them to heel needle. Work across instep in eyelet pattern (odd round of chart) until last 3 sts of needle. Slip the last 3 sts onto heel needle. 39 sts on heel needle. Stitch count on instep needle is 23, 25, or 27, depending on which chart row you're on. Both needles begin and end with P1.
Cuff
Cable round of heel needle: P1, c4l, p2, k7, p2, k7, p2, k7, p2, c4r, pl. Instep needle: P1, work across in next (even) rnd of chart, p1. Heel needle: P1, k4, p2, work across in same rnd of chart to last 7 sts, p2, k4, p1. Continue in pattern as established, working the cable round of the heel needle every 4" round. Work even until leg measures 4" from heel or approx 1" short of desired length, ending on row 10 or 24 of main chart. (Now would be a good time to check how close you are to using half the ball of yarn by weight.) Do not start the staggered lace column on last repeat. Finish 5th eyelet pair of repeat in progress and do 2 rnds without any lace eyelets. See charts at bottom of last page for example of how this will look on the instep. Work the heel needle the same way, but do continue the 4 st cable as established.
Ribbing:
Instep: P1, (k2, p3, k2, p2) to last 8 sts, k2, p3, k2, p1. Heel: P1, 4 st cable pattern as established, p2, (k2, p3, k3, p2) to last 5 sts, 4 st cable pattern as established, pl. Bind off in pattern on a non-cabled rnd. Block socks to open up ribbed lace pattern and achieve final measurements. ? 2011, Amy Klimt. All rights reserved
Ending chart when last rnd is rnd 24.
