Podophilia Socks by Jenny Willett
Pattern notes:
These socks took me 70 hours to make- beware, they are not for the faint hearted!
They are deliberately designed to be very labour intensive and fragile, as the concept relates to decadence and sexuality. The original socks were coated in pheromones to attract men to the knitter's feet as a statement on knitting and the power of making for Stitched Science at London's Science Museum in 2011.lf you'd like to find out more about my projects for Stitched Science I blogged about them on my website through June 2011, you can read more at www.worldofwoolcraft.tumblr.com. Size: to fit a woman's foot: UK size 6 US size 8 25cm/ 9 14/16ths inches long foot Finished Measurements to fit foot: Ankle circumference: 22 cm Foot length: 25 cm Height from heel to rib: 22 cm Materials: Angel Lace (10% cashmere, 20% silk, 70% baby alpaca blend) 25g used of a 100g skein, by H.W.Hammand & Co. (www.bluefaced.com) 1 set of 1.75mm double-pointed needles 1 set 2 mm double-pointed needles Small stitch markers Tapestry needle Gauge: 40 sts/48 rounds = 4 inches in stocking stitch worked in the round on 2mm DPNs
Spiral Pattern (Worked in the round):
Left sock: Round 1: (P1, K4) rpt to end Round 2: (K1, P1, K3) rpt to end Round 3: (K2, P1, K2) rpt to end Round 4: (K3, P1, K1) rpt to end Round 5: (K4, P1) rpt to end Right sock: Round 1: (K4, P1) rpt to end Round 2: (K3, P1, K1) rpt to end Round 3: (K2, P1, K2) rpt to end Round 4: (K1, P1, K3) rpt to end Round 5: (P1, K4) rpt to end
Sock pattern:
Ribbing:
5mm needles using a Twisted German Cast On to give stretch to the edge. Divide over in the round taking care not to twist the stitches. Place marker (PM) and work for 15 rounds in K1,P1 ribbing.
Ankle:
Change to 2mm DPNs and work in pattern as noted above. Each sock's pattern spirals around the foot towards the arch, leading the eye towards the centre of the feet. There is a 5 stitch repeat and a 5 row repeat, so it's really easy to remember and follow, even though the gauge is absolutely tiny. I strongly recommend that you change the placement of the start of the round in order to avoid laddering in the pattern. Use different coloured stitch markers that you slip every round to keep track of where the ends of the needlesshould be and where the start of theround is. Work in pattern for 70 rounds (14 pattern rpts)
Heel flap:
is is the same for both left and right socks. Reorganise stitches as follows over 3 needles Needle 1: 22 sts Needle 2: 46 sts Needle 3: 22 sts Work N1 is established pattern Work back and forth on N2 as follows: Row 1 (RS): Sl1, K to end. Row 2 (WS): (Sl1PW, P1) rpt to end Work for 50 rows, ending on a WS row. The heel flap should be about 2 1/2 inches long.
Turn the heel:
Next row (RS): Sl1, K30, K2tog, turn. Heel Decrease Row 1 (WS): Sl1PW, P16, P2tog, turn. Heel Decrease Row 2 (RS): Sl1KW, K16, K2tog, turn. Repeat heel decrease rows 1 and 2 until all of the stitches of the heel flap have been worked. You should end on a WS row and have 18 sts left on needle 1.
Gusset:
Knit across the heel flap, then pick up 25 sts along the left hand edge of the flap, using the slipped stitch loops to pick up the stitches through. Pick up 25 sts from the right hand side of the heel flap too, using the samemethod. Work the next round in pattern around the entire sock and redistribute the stitches as follows, shifting markers to note the appropriate end of needle points. N1: 44 sts (this is the top of the foot) N2: 34 sts (left side and left side of heel) N3: 34 sts (right side of heel and right side)
Total 112sts
Work decreases as follows: Gusset decrease round 1: N1- Work in established pattern, N2- K1, SSK, K to end, N3 - K to last 3 sts, K2tog,K1 Gusset decrease round 2: Work N1 in pattern and K all sts on N2 and N3. Repeat gusset decrease rounds 1 and 2 until there are 90 sts left (11 decrease repeats of rounds 1 and 2, decreasing 22 sts total). N.B Over the decreases it is impossible to keep the pattern even because of the changes in stitch count, you can try if you want to, using your best judgement as to where the pattern will be out of line (perhaps try to hide this under the heel as much as possible). Your stitches should be arranged as follows: N1: 44 sts N2: 23 sts N3: 23 sts Work foot in established pattern, now patterning across all needles again, for 70 rounds (14 pattern rpts). The foot should be approximately 8 1/2 inches in length.
Toe:
Check your stitches are correctly orientated, N1 should be the top of the foot. Ensure that the heel is lined up properly so that you get the toe straight. This is especially important if you have been moving stitches between needles to avoid laddering. Decrease for the toe as follows: Toe decrease round 1: N1- K1, SSK, K to last 3 sts in, K2tog, K1, N2- K1, SSK, K to end, N3- K to last 3 sts, K2tog,K1 Toe decrease round 2: K all sts. Repeat toe decrease rounds 1 and 2 until there are 22 sts left (17 decrease repeats of rounds 1 and 2, decreasing 68sts total). Rearrange the sts onto 2 DPNs, so that 11 are on top of the toes and 11 under the toes. Use Kitchener stitch to graft the stitches together evenly. Repeat for the other sock, changing only the spiral stitch pattern repeat as stated at the beginning of this pattern.
Finishing:
Fasten in the ends securely with a tapestry needle. Wet block your socks carefully in luke warm water and dry on sock blockers to maintain a good shape.
[About The Designer:
Jenny learned to knit in 2009 and is now working to form a career as a teacher and designer in London. She is available for commission work, both creating bespoke designs and standard knitting work. You can contact her and follow her progress on Twitter and Ravelry as JennyWillknitt and on her blog: www.worldofwoolcraft.tumblr.com.
