As complicated as the cables in this design might seem, they are not an intractable problem like a Gordian knot. Have fun with the pattern and look forward to a pair of gloves to keep your hands warm next time when it's freezing cold outside!
■ $100\g$ of Wollmeise $100\%$ superwash in "Rosenrot" or any other fingering weight yarn (as with most cable designs, the cables will show up most with light colored, smooth yarns without much variegation) $=2,5\textsf{m m}$ circular needle (80 or ${100}\,{\mathsf{c m}}$ · Tapestry needle · A little piece of waste yarn
Gauge:
30 stitches and 44 rows on $10\times10\;\mathsf{c m}$ (stockinette stitch)
Size:
I飞 19cm hand circumference (look at the picture below where to measure) It's important to check the fit of the glove while knitting, so try it on from time to time. Length of the fingers: Thumb: 6 cm Index finger: 8 cm Middle finger: 8,5 cm Ring finger: 8 cm Pinky: 6,5 cm
Sizing it down/adjusting finger length:
To size the chart down a bit (approximately women's size M) you can leave out 4 stitches on the inside of the hand. These stitches are in twisted rib pattern on the cuff and stockinette on the hand so there is no change in the cable charts. When working the fingers you then need to work one less stitch on the palm side for every finger (pinky, ring finger, middle finger get each 7 stitches] and the index finger 9 stitches). Another way to size it down is to use a slightly smaller needle $(2,25\mathsf{m m})$ There are certain rows in the charts for every finger in which you can add or delete a few rounds to adjust the finger length Pinky: 108 - 111 Ring finger: 112 - 117 Middle finger: 112 - 123 Index finger: 112 - 117 Thumb: 12 - 16
Notes, abbreviations and symbols:
These gloves are done using magic loop (much easier because no cable crossings between dpns) but you can nevertheless use dpns. Just be aware that the instruction often refers to needle 1 and 2 (meaning both halves on the total stitch count) and the charts show a line dividing these parts (blue). [R]:... $=$ instructions for the right glove [L]:.. $=$ instructions for the left glove The cabling symbols used in the charts are described on a separate page..
Instruction:
Both [R] and [L]: CO 68 stitches and separate into two times 34 stitches. (The beginning of the round is at the outer edge of the glove next to the pinky)
Section 1 (Cuff)
[R]: Round 1-45: Work chart "Section 1 - Cuff [R]" [L]: Round 1-45: Work chart "Section 1 - Cuff [L]" Section 2 (Thumb gusset and Hand)
Read before you go on:
Both charts in this section go until 95. However you just work round 46-94. DO NOT KNIT ROUND 95. This round just shows with different colors which stitches are used for which finger in the next section. In round 74 the stitches created for the thumb need to be transferred onto waste yarn. The stitches needed for this are marked with a black bar. Afterwards cast on stitches as shown in the chart to close the gap. [R]: Round 46-94: Work chart "Section 2 - Thumb gusset and hand [R]" [L]: Round 46-94: Work chart "Section 2 - Thumb gusset and hand [L]" Put all the sts (68) on waste yarn.
Section 3 (fingers):
The fingers are worked starting with the pinky. If you are not sure which stitches belong to which finger look at the charts in section 2 and use the colored fields in round 95: Yellow $\because$ Pinky Blue $=$ Ring finger Green $=$ Middle finger Red $=$ Index finger Each finger is charted out separately! When joining the yarn leave a long tail. To get you on the way I will explain how the pinky of the right hand is worked: transfer 8 stitches from the back of hand and 8 stitches from the palm (all marked yellow) on the needles. Now begin working the chart, starting with the first stitch from the back of the hand. When you have worked all 8 stitches, you need to cast on 4 stitches using the backward loop method. Afterwards, work the 8 stitches from the palm. First row finished! When knitting the other fingers you sometimes need both to cast on 4 stitches and pick up 4 stitches from the cast on edge from a finger you already did. Take for example the ring finger of the right glove: First the 8 stitches from the back of hand, then cast on 4 stitches, work 8 stitches from the palm and then pick up 4 stitches from the cast on edge you did when working the pinky. Concerning holes between the fingers: I do not recommend picking up extra stitches between existing stitches to prevent holes. I prefer using the tail left when joining the yarn to tighten up stitches at the corners which might get loose. Don't do this right after you finish one finger. Wait until the whole glove is done. Pullit on and then look where you really need to tighten stitches. Take a tapestry needle and rework the stitches when wearing the glove so that you can see how much is necessary to tidy things up. Work the fingers using the charts (there are separate charts for each finger on both hands). When you finish the last round in one of the charts: cut the yarn and thread it through the remaining stitches. Pull tight and weave in the end.
Thumb:
Both thumbs are charted out. Contrary to the thing I wrote before concerning picking up extra stitches between fingers I recommend doing so when working the thumb because the thumb can be forced apart from the hand much more than the fingers.
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