Toddler's Aran Vest
By Arbutus Books Designs Features This vest was knit from handspun local sheep wool that I bought at our farmer's market. It has superb stitch definition. It was quick to knit. Yarn Recommend 100% Aran wool yarn. See note above. Needles One long Addi Circular needle size 4 mm. Use the magic loop method to knit in the round. Two stitch holders for the back neck stitches and the front stitches. Gauge 3 12 stitches per inch over stocking stitch. Size The vest is 15 inches long from the top of the back neck ribbing to the bottom, and 22 inches around at the under arms. It should fit a two to four year old. Cast-on Loosely cable cast-on 104 stitches. Join into a circle without twisting, and use the magic loop method with your long circular needle to knit in the round. Bottom Ribbing Make a single rib twisted stich ribbing, by knitting into the back of each knit stitch on each row, and normally purling each purl stitch. Thus, \*K1 through back of loop, P1\* around for 10 rows. Then switch to the cable pattern. Cable Pattern See photo above. The front and the back are the same, 52 stitches each. Start the first cables on row 6. Summary: \*Purl 4, knit 4 left slant cable, purl 2, knit 4 left slant cable, purl 6, knit 12 centre link cable, purl 6, knit 4 right slant cable, purl 2, knit 4 right slant cable, purl 4\* repeat once for the back. Left slant cable: Knit over 4 stitches. On every 8th row hold the first 2 stitches on a cable needle to the front. Knit the second 2 stitches, then the ones on the cable needle. Link cable: Knit over 12 stitches. On every 8"h row hold first 3 stitches to back of work, knit next 3 stitches, then the 3 from the cable needle, hold next 3 to front, then knit 3, finally knit last 3 from cable needle. Right slant cable: Knit over 4 stitches. On every 8th row hold the first 2 stitches on a cable needle to the back. Knit the second 2 stitches, then the ones on the cable needle. Back Armholes At 8 inches from the bottom, begin the armholes. At first, work on the back 52 stitches only. I did not need to put my front stitches on a holder, they were quite happy resting on my long needle. For the separate back and fronts you will no longer be knitting in the round, rather knitting back and forth So for your cables you will need to alternately knit on the right side and purl on the wrong side of your fabric. Work 5 decrease rows as follows. Bind off 2 stitches at beginning of next 2 rows, then 3 stitches at beginning of subsequent 2 rows, and then knit 2tog to decrease 1 stitch at each end of the last decrease row. There will remain 38 stitches. Continue until the armholes measure 5 I% inches. Back Shoulders Bind off 5 stitches at beginning of next 2rows, then 4 stitches at beginning of subsequent 2 rows. Leave the 20 stitches for the back neck on a stitch holder. Break off yarn leaving a long tail. Front Armholes, V-neck shaping and Front Shoulders Work the front armholes the same as the back for the 5 decrease rows. Then shape the V-neck. With right side facing, work to the centre of the front. Turn and work on these 19 stitches to the shoulder, leaving the other 19 on a holder. Decrease 1 stitch at the neck edge every right side row 10 times. There will be 9 stitches remaining. Work until the front armhole is the same length as the back, easy to measure because the cables will match. Shape the shoulder the same as the back. Break yarn leaving a long tail. Rejoin yarn at neck edge of held stitches and repeat, reversing the shaping at the shoulder. Neckband Sew the shoulder seams using the long tail ends. Beginning at one shoulder, knit across the back neck stitches and pick up 3 stitches for every 4 rows, making a stitch at the base of the V shaping by lifting and twisting the stitch bar. Work twisted ribbing in the round for 5 rounds, and then bind off loosely using a suspended bind off. Armhole Bands Pick up stitches in a similar manner around each armhole - I had 62 stitches. Work twisted rib for 4 rows, suspended bind off. Finishing Darn in all loose ends, wash and block the vest.
