Charred
by April George Inspired by mossy shades and charred wood, this simple top-down sweater has a touch of Georgian charm that even Mr. Darcy would find hard to resist! DIFFICULTY Beginner-Intermediate
YARN Rowan, Felted Tweed, 50g, 175m/191yd, 50% wool 25% Alpaca 25% Viscose, shade 159 Carbon (Yarn A) Wraps per inch (WPI): 11 Rowan Kidsilk Haze, 25g, 209m/229yds, 70% Kid Mohair 30% Silk, shades 577 Elegance (Yarn B), 597 Jelly (Yarn C)
TENSION
Work 20 sts and 32 rows to measure 4x4in, 10x10cm in stocking stitch using 4.5mm (US7) needles and Yarn A. Check tension before starting project and change needle size if required.
NOTIONS
A pair of 4.5mm (US7)/ 5mm (Us8)/5.5mm (US9) needles A 4.5mm (US7) circular needle, 24in/60 and 32in/80cm long Stitch markers x4 Stitch holder and/or waste yarn of similar weight Tapestry needle Where stocking stitch (st st) is to be used in the round, you will only be knitting a 'knit' stitch and not employing 'purl' stitches at all. When working in the flat, you will be knitting and purling alternate rows as usual. Pleat forming is given in the pattern text. @ Charred is published by April George October 2011. PATTERN NOTES n.b. Yarns B & C require one ball of each shade, but will only use part of each ball. It is useful to use a different kind or colour of marker to clearly mark the beginning of the round, which will save any confusion as to where in the round you are! Tip: Using spare yarn to hold stitches allows you to try on your sweater to check size and lengthasyouwork. Blocking the sleeves prior to seaming will give a neater join to the seam.
MEASUREMENTS TABLE FOR GARMENTS
| To fit bust | 32 | 36 | 40 | 44 | 48 | in |
| Actual fit | 30.5 | 34.5 | 38.5 | 42.5 | 46.5 | in |
| Length | 50 | 54 | 58 | 62 | 66 | cm |
| Yarn A | 5 | 5 | 6 | 6 | 7 | balls |
PATTERN STARTS
Using yarn A and 4.5mm (Us7) smallest size circular needle, loosely cast on 104(108,112,118,124) sts. Join round and place marker to mark start of round. Work 3 rounds in moss stitch. Next, working in st st K38(40,40,42,44) and place a marker, K14(14,16,16,18) and place a 2nd marker, K38(40,40,42,44) and place 3rd marker, K14(14,16,16,18). You have now set up your work ready for the raglan shaping and will be at the start of the next round. Following round: K1, M1, K to first st before first marker, \*M1, k1, slip marker, K1, M1, K to next marker. Repeat from ' \*' and continue this increase pattern until round is complete. Next round: knit. Repeat these 2 rounds 17(19,21,23,25) times, changing to longer length circular needle if required. On the following round only increase on the body side of the markers, not on the sleeve side. 252(272, 292, 314, 336)sts Knit 2 rounds without increases. Next, knit across 76(82,86,92,98) back sts, place the 50(54,60,64,70) sleeve sts 0n a stitch holder or spare yarn. Cast on 6 sts and place marker, knit across 76(82,86,92,98) front sts and place remaining 50(54,60,64,70) stitches on a stitch holder or spare yarn, cast on 6 sts and place a marker. The 2 x 6 sts you have cast on will give ease for the underarm. Knit across back sts to end of round marker. 164(176,184,196,208) sts Continue in st st until work measures 24(25.5,26.5,28,30)cm from centre back. Waistshaping: \*K to 3sts before marker, K2tog, K2, ssk \*twice Knit 10(12,14,16,18) rounds without shaping. Repeat these 11(13,15,17,19) rounds twice more. Work 18(20,22,24,24) rounds without shaping. Next, repeat decrease row once more. 152(164,172,184,196)sts @ Charred is published by April George October 2011. Lower waist / upper hip shaping and bottom edge: \*Knit to first st before marker, M1, K2, M1, repeat from ' \*' to end of round. Work 12(12,14,14,16) rounds without shaping. Next round, repeat increase round once more, followed by 1(1,1,1, 3) rounds without shaping. 160(172,180,192,204)sts Next, make pleat as follows: Using a long length of waste yarn and tapestry needle, thread the yarn through the back of every stitch leaving a short length at beginning and end of round. This "lifeline" thread marks the stitches you will later pick up and knit to form the pleat. Knit 8 rounds in stocking stitch being careful not to knit the marker yarn. Next, pleats are formed by folding the fabric placing the wrong sides together, then knit the stitches on the working needle with the corresponding stitches 8 rows below (those that you marked with the "lifeline" thread). Knit 2(2,2,3,3) rounds. Work bottom edge in moss stitch for 3 rounds. Cast off loosely. Sleeves:
(Pattern is written for working sleeves on straight needles but you can knit them 'in the round' as you did on the body, if preferred) Place sleeve stitches from holder onto 4.5mm (Us7) needles and work upper arm as follows: Using Yarn A, join yarn and work in st st casting on 3 sts at beginning of next 2 rows ending with a purl row. 56(60,66,70,76)sts Continue working on these sts in st st for 18 rows, ending with a WS row. Next row, K1, K2tog, K to last 3 sts, K2tbl, K1. Knit 7(7,7,9,9) rows st st Repeat the last 8(8,8,10,10) rows 3 times more. Following row, K1, K2tog, K to last 3sts, K2 tbl, K1. Work 5 rows ending with WS row. 46(50,56,60,66) sts Row 1: K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1 Knit 3[3,5,5,7) rows st st. Repeat these 4(4,6,6,8) rows 6 more times, ending with WS row 60(64,70,74,80)sts Following row, as first row of increase pattern. Next row purl. 62(66,72,76,82)sts Work pleat as given for body, making the folded pleat row on a 'knit' row. Next row purl. @ Charred is published by April George October 2011. Change to Yarns B and C. Holding both yarns together knit cuff as follows: Row 1: K1, M1, K1 in every stitch until last st, K1. Rows 2 & 4: Purl Rows 3 & 5: Knit Repeat rows 2-5 once more. Change to 5mm (Us8) needles and repeat rows 2-4 once. Change to 5.5mm (Us9) needles and work 2 rows in st st, ending with a WS row Work 4 rows garter st Cast off loosely. Repeat sleeve pattern for second sleeve. Finishing: With a tapestry needle weave in all ends. Block sleeve edges for seaming. Using mattress stitch, sew sleeve seams neatly, being careful to match increased stitches at the underarm. Lightly block finished garment. @ Charred is published by April George October 2011. Items made from this pattern are not to be sold commercially. Thanks.
