ILMARINEN
This lightweight cardigan is very warm, although knitted with thin yarn. The instructions are for size L only, but the cardigan is easily modified for other sizes. See below.
Yarn
KnitPicks Palette ( $100\,\%$ wool, $1.75\ \mathrm{oz}/50\ \mathrm{g}$ = approx. 231 yds/ 208 m) in Marine Heather 4 balls (DB, see below for abbreviations) Calypso Heather 4 balls (LB) White 4 bll (CC)
Size
Woman's large $(42^{"}$ bust)
Gauge
36-37 s and $37~\mathsf{r o w s}=4"/10\mathsf{\,c m}.$ This means 4- 4.25 sts per inch and 4.25 rows per inch.
Needles
US #1 $(2,5\mathsf{m m})$ , DPN's and a $32^{\prime\prime}$ circular. Adjust needle size to obtain corrct gauge.
Notions
Tapestry needle Stitch markers 10 buttons, $1/2"$ diameter.
Abbreviations
KII $\mathsf{p}=\mathsf{p u r l}$ $\mathsf{s t}(\mathsf{s})=$ stitch(es) $\mathsf{D B}=$ dark background color $\mathsf{L B=}$ light background color ${\mathsf{C}}{\mathsf{C}}=$ contrasting color $\mathsf{B C=}$ background color (either DB or LB) $\mathsf{C O}=$ cast on $M1=$ make 1 new stitch (see below for increases in pattern) $\mathsf{B O}=$ bind off $k2\mathsf{t o g}=$ knit 2 together $\mathsf{S S K=}$ slip 2 as if to purl, slip back to left needle and knit together through the back loops $\mathsf{p m}=$ place marker $\mathsf{m}=$ marker $\mathsf{s l}=$ slip $\mathsf{S S S K=}$ slip 3 as if to purl, slip back to left needle and knit together through the back loops $\mathsf{W}\&\mathsf{I}=$ wrap and turn
Corrugated Rib
Row 1: $^{\ast}\mathsf{k}2$ in DB, k2 in LB, repeat from ? Repeat row 1.
Increasing
Unless otherwise indicated, increase with the color you would use for the stitch in char. Use the floats on the wrong side of work to increase: pick up float and knit to the back of it. Always pick up the same color float as your stitch would be.
Notes about the Pattern
The cardigan is worked in the round. On every round, you have only two colors, either darker background color and contrasting color OR lighter background color and contrasting color.
Sleeves
With DB, CO 84 sts and knit 19 rows of corugated rib (see above). Begin straned paten.Section AB is the pattern repeat in chart (see chart). Row 1: with DB M1, begin stranded pattern in C (see chart), knit to end, with DB M1. Knit the first st on row always 3, with BC. This is your seam stitch for the sleeve. Knit rows 1-16 in chart. Begin increases for sleeves. Increase row: kl, Ml (see Increasing), k in pattern to last st, M1, k1. Work increases on every 4th row until you have 152 sts. Work without increases until the sleeve measures 19". (Work rows 1-54 two times total and then work rows 1-45.) With BC, BO 27 sts for the underarm seam: BO 13 sts before the seam st, BO seam st, and BO 13 st affer the seam st.
Sleeve Cap
Knit the sleeve caps in the round. CO 9 s for steeking to replace the stitches you cast offor the underarm seam. Steek pattern: \*with BC k1l, with CC kl, repeat from \*. Always knit the stitches next to these nine steek stitches with BC. Mark the steeks with stitch markers. Your row begins in the middle of the steek stitches. Knit sleeve cap decreases. Decrease row: $^*\mathrm{k}$ in steek pattern to m, sl m, with BC k2tog, k in pattern to 2 sts before the next $\mathsf{m}_{\epsilon}$ with BC SSK, sl m, k in stek pattern to end. Repeat decrease row 24 times, $\textsf{k}\rceil$ row in pattern, and with BC BO all sts.
Body
Knit back and fronts together. Yu will knit a strip of stitches for in the middle of the steek sts. With DO41sts.Ki4 sts insek pa, m,kinC,o inugd ribtlst 5ss kl inDBm,nd instk Kif c rb,iing ttes instk and slipping all the markers. On the last row of ribbing, M1 in BC before the last m. Continue kniting the steek sts in steek pattern. Knit the body according to chart.Begin at D, on row 25. Work rows 24-54, then work rows 1-54 and work rows 1-45 once more.
Underarm seams:
On next row, k tom as set in steek pattern, sl m, work 88 sts in charted pattern, BO 27 sts for underarms, work 173 sts as set in charted patern, BO 27 sts for underarms, and work to end as set in pattern. On next row: CO 9 new sts for steeks to replace the underarm stitches and work these sts in steek patern as described above. Always knit the first and last st of the steek in BC. Work in pattern until your body piece measures $2,5"{\cdot}3"$ after the underarms. Then BO the steek sts between fronts and 12 sts in both fronts (24 sts total) for the neck. On the next row, CO 9 new sts for steeks and knit them in steek pattern as described above. Mark the beginning and end of the steek sts with markers. Your row begins in the middle of these stitches. Neckline decreases: On the next row, begin neckline decreases. Decrease row 1: Work in pattern to m, sl m, with BC k3tog, work in pattern to 3 sts before the last m on the row, with BC SSK, sl m, work to end in pattern. Decrease row 2: Work in pattern to m, sl m, with BC k2tog, work in pattern to 2 sts before the last m on the row, with BC SSK, sl m, work to end in pattern. Repeat decrease row 1 twice on every row. Then, knit decrease row 2 eleven times total on every row, eight times total on every other row, four times total on every third row, and four times total on every fourth row. While you work the neckline decreases, work the back without changes until it measures $6,5^{\prime\prime}.7^{\prime\prime}$ from the underarms. Then BO 65 sts for neckline, and make 9 sts for the neckline steek as before. work them in the steek pattern.For the back neckline decreases, I st onboth sides on the next row and decrease I st on both sides on every other row.Decreasetwo stiches by knitting k3tog or SSK as in the fronts, and decrease I st by kniting k2tog or $S S K,$ with BC. Cut CC. As you work the short rows for shoulders, BO steek sts. Shoulders: Work short rows for shoulders back and forth in BC. Left front shoulder and right back shoulder: Row 1 (WS): p 30 sts, w&t. Row 2: k to end. Row 3: p 15 sts, w&t. Row 4: k to end. Row 5: p to end, working the wraps. BO all sts. Right front shoulder and left back shoulder: Row I (RS): k 30 sts, w&t. Row 2: p to end. Row 3: k 15 sts, w&t. Row 4: p to end. Row 5: k to end, working the wraps. BO all sts.
Finishing
Block all pieces. Crochet or sew the steeks before cuting. Cut the steeks before joining pieces. Sew the sleeves to armholes and join the shoulder seams. Front buttonhole bands: Pick up 152 sts for the ribbed strips. Work the strips in corrugated rib. Begin with 3 BC sts, and end with $3~{\tt B C}$ sts. Work as set until the strip measures $3/4"$ B alls.Knit th second strip to theother front asthe fist one, but affer $3/8"$ of ribbing, work the buttonholes as follows: in the first and every fourth "k2 DB" bars,\*k2tog, yo\*. On the next row, purl the yo's for a buttonhole. Continue to end in pattern. Affer buttonhole bands, knit the collar. Pick up 234 sts along the neckline, work 5 rows in garter st and BO all s. Block buttonhole bands, attach buttons.
Modifying the pattern
The pattern is rather simple to modify. The charted pattern is 40 sts wide. The cardigan has limited amount of shaping. The sleeves have 1 seam st at the beginning of row, and sleeve caps, fronts and back and neck pieces are all separated by $9$ st steeks. For shaping and different sizes I recommend using Ann Budd's The Knite's Handy Book of Sweater Patterns for reference.
This patte isoffeed fornon-cmmercial peronaluse only. ny othere wihot prior pemissionfm designer is sricly prohibited. If you have any questions or comments, see contact information below.
$\circledcirc$ Tuulia Salmela 2008.
http://tuulia.blogspot.com http://tuulia.etsy.com tuulia.salmela@gmail.com Ravelry ID: Tuulia
