Opus 800 Knitting Pattern by Mel Browne and Linda OCarroll: Decorative Lace Socks with Eyelash Yarn

Opus 800 by Mel Browne and Linda Ocarroll

Opus series

Craft or artwork? You decide.

Description

Short summer socks with a highly decorative leg in lace and eyelash yarn, and a lace instep. Sizes: Women's small, medium and large. Widths are varied by adjusting needle size. Pink sample socks: The main yarn is an unknown brand and the feature yarn is Sirdar Reflection. Size medium for 10-inch foot, knitted toe-up on 2.75mm circular ndls. Red sample socks: Size small for 10-inch foot, knitted cuff-down on 2.5mm dpns. The main yarn is Abensberger-Waren-Vertriebs fleiBiges Lieschen, shade 602 (discontinued); the feature yarn is Sirdar Reflection, shade 03. Weight of both socks: 66g.

Requirements

50g/230yd of any 4ply for the main yarn and 13g/32yd of any eyelash or similar yarn for the feature. To get the fairisle effect, a yarn with short eyelashes (4-5mm) would be best, for example Sirdar Reflection. NB: You may need 3ply/laceweight yarn to achieve gauge for small size. For toe-up version: 2 circular needles for knitting either one at a time or both at once, or one circular to knit with magic loop. For cuff-down version: 4 dpns. Metric: size 2.5mm for small; 2.75mm for medium; 3mm for large US: size 1 or 2 for small; size 2 for medium; size 2 or 3 for large UK/Canada: size 12 or 13 for small, size 12 for medium, size 11 for large 3 stitch markers for cuff-down version

Gauge

Medium: on 2.75mm needles, 8 st to the inch. Small: on 2.5mm ndls, 9.5 sts per inch.

Stitches and tech terms

k = knit k2tog = knit 2 sts together cast off = bind off in USA p =purl ssk = sl1 kwise, sl1 pwise, insert left ndl into fronts of both sts, k2tog tbl. yfwd (yo in US) = yarn forward: bring the yarn to the front of the work in an anti-clockwise motion round the right-hand needle kfb = increase 1: k the st in front then twist it and k in the back without pushing the st off the needle in between

TOE-UP VERSION (on two circular needles) byMelBrowne

Cast on

Cast on 12 sts on each of two circular needles i.e. 24 sts on each sock, using Judy's magic cast-on and leaving plenty of tail. Place marker for start of round. Row I: Knit (on the first round using both the ball yarn and the tail held together). Row 2: k1, kfb, knit to last 3 sts, kfb, k2 - do this on each needle of each sock. (On first round, remember to knit both strands together.) Repeat these 2 rows until you have 34 sts on each needle, 68 sts for each sock.

Foot

Start the foot pattern on one side of your sock(s), keeping in stockinet for the other side, which will become thesole.

Foot pattern

Round 1 p all sts Round 2 (yfd, k2tog) repeat to end of instep sts Rounds 3-7 k all sts Round 8 (yfd, k2tog, k2) repeat to end of instep sts Rounds 9-13 k all sts Round 14 As round 2 Round 15 p all instep sts Rounds 16-20 As round 2 (diagonal rib) Repeat this pattern until the foot is the right length to start the heel. See ^Measuring foot length below. You are going to match the pattern in the leg to the foot so read that part before deciding exactly where to stop knitting here.

Short row heel

If you are working on both socks at once, you will be doing something different here: you will be working back and forth on the first sock to finish the heel, then doing the same with the second. From then on, you will go back to working them both at the same time. Knit across the sole sts, (the ones in stockinet), and then turn. Purl all sts but stop just before the last one. Turn. Slip one st knitwise then k to the last st, turn. Row1 Slip one purlwise, p to last st before gap, turn Row2 Slip one knitwise, k to last st before gap, turn Continue with these 2 rows until you have 16 sts left in the middle, and 9 on the other side of the gaps. Now, incorporate these outer sts back in, one at a time: Row 1 Slip one purlwise, p to last st before gap, p2tog, p1, turn Row2 Slip one knitwise, k to last st before gap, k2tog, k1, turn Continue with these 2 rows until all sts have been worked. Now do all of this with the other sock, if you are knitting 2 at a time.

Leg

The pattern for the leg mirrors the pattern for the toe but on both sides of the sock now, and with more fun embellishment! Try to match up the pattern so you continue at the same point as where you stopped. I have included the leg pattern below and also a table showing how it links with the foot pattern, so you can pick up where you left off. (See also leg and instep charts below) Remember, you are now knitting the pattern on both needles.

Leg pattern

Rounds 1-3 k all sts with the feature yarn Rounds 4-6 k all sts with the main yarn\*\* Rounds 7-8 Alternate with the main yarn and the feature yarn, knitting one st with each yarn Rounds 9-1l k all sts with the main yarn Rounds 12-14 k all sts with the feature yarn Rounds 15-19 (yfd, k2tog) repeat to the end with the main yarn

For example, on the test sock I turned the heel after completing round 20 of the foot and started the leg pattern at round 1, but if you had stopped after round 15 on the foot pattern you would start the leg pattern at round 15. vitch yarns, don't break off. Keep the spare one on the inside of the sock to use latt

Cuff

Continue knitting the leg pattern until the sock is 1 inch shorter than you want it to be. Try to finish after round 3 or 14 for maximum effect. Work an inch (approx 12 rows) in k1 p1 rib.

Cast off

k first st, \*yfd, p second st then using the left needle, pull the yfd and the k st over the p st to cast it off. Wrap the yarn around the needle the wrong way, i.e. coming round the right needle from the right, then k the next st. Lift the yfd and the p st over the k st. Repeat from \* until all sts have been cast off. Use a crochet hook to slip st the last st to the first one in the round then pull yarn through needle. Sew in ends.

Measuring foot length

When knitting the foot, you need to know when to start the heel. Measure your foot, from the back of the heel to the end of the toes. The easiest way to do this is to stand on the tape measure. Now you have the length, take off 1o% for ease - this ensures they will fit snugly. Now you know how long you want the sock to be before you put it on. The heel is going to take up 1.5 inches of that length so begin the heel when your sock is 1.5 inches shorter than you want it to be when finished. For example, my foot is 10 inches long, so I want my finished sock to be 9 inches long. In this sock, I continued until the foot of the sock measured 7.5 inches before beginning the heel.

CUFF-DOWN VERSION (on 4 dpns) by Linda OCarroll

Cast on

Cast on 69 stitches by thumb method over two needles held together. Divide sts evenly between 3 needles, taking care not to twist row. Transfer last stitch onto next needle, and knit first and last sts together (68 sts). Mark beginning of row with stitch marker.

Leg

Work 2 repeats of leg pattern (see Leg Stitch Pattern below or chart at the end of the pattern), finishing on round 6 or 11. Leg length adjustment: You can lengthen or shorten the leg here, by working more or fewer full repeats of the leg stitch pattern. When changing at the row-end between main colour and contrast or feature yarn, do not cut the yarn, but drop it and pick it up later.

Leg pattern

Rounds 1-3 k all sts with the feature yarn Rounds 4-6 k all sts with the main yarn Rounds 7-8 Alternate with the main yarn and the feature yarn, knitting one st with each yarn Rounds 9-1l k all sts with the main yarn Rounds 12-14 k all sts with the feature yarn Rounds 15-19 (yfd, k2tog) repeat to the end, to make diagonal rib with the main yarn

Fisherman's rib heel flap

Row 1: sll, p33 onto one needle for heel flap. You will be working back and forth on these heel sts. Arrange remaining 34 sts on 2 needles for instep, and leave instep sts for working later. Row 2: (sl1, k1) to end of heel row. Turn. Row 3: sl1, p to end of heel row. Turn. Repeat rows 2 and 3 twelve more times (27 heel flap rows in total).

Turn heel

Row 1: sl1, k21, ssk, kl, turn Row 2: sll, pl1, p2tog, pl, turn Row 3: sl1, k12, ssk, k1, turn Row 4: sl1, p13, p2tog, p1, turn Row 5: sl1, k14, ssk, k1, turn Continue as above until all heel sts are used up. The last two rows will be: sl1, k20, ssk sl1, p20, p2tog (22 sts)

Pick up gusset stitches

Knit across to right side of heel (i.e. the side which will be on the right when you are wearing the sock). With RS facing, pick up, and knit 14 sts down left side of heel as in Option 1 or 2 below. To prevent or minimise holes, make sure that the first two and last two sts picked up are very close to the beginning and end of heel section. Option 1: Don't pick up loops from the very edge of the heel; pick up the inner loop of the first or last stitch of the row, arrange it on the left needle so that it is turned a little to the left in the normal way, then knit into the back of it. This will twist the stitch to tighten the pick-up row. Option 2: Pick up the slipped end-of-row stitches, inserting the needle under both legs of each slipped stitch to make each new stitch. You now have the end of the heel flap and the right side of the heel on one needle, and the instep on a second needle. Pattern across instep sts according to instep chart below, as follows: Either: If you finished the leg pattern on row 6, start on row 6 of instep chart. Or: If you finished the leg pattern on row 11, start on row 14 of instep chart. You still have the top and right side of the heel on one needle, and the instep on a second needle. With a third needle, pick up and knit 14 sts on the left side of the heel flap, using method as described above. Using the same third needle, knit across 11 sts from the top of the heel flap. (25 + 34 + 25 sts). You now have the instep sts on one needle and the heel sts on two needles, with the end of the row at centre back of heel.

Gusset decrease

Row I: k to last 3 sts of right heel needle, k2tog, k1. Patt across instep (see instep chart below). Or left heel needle, k1, ssk, knit to end of round. Row 2: Right heel needle: knit. Instep needle: patt across as above. Left heel needle: knit. Repeat these 2 rows until there are 17 sts on each heel needle and 34 sts on the instep needle (16 gusset decrease rows altogether).

Foot

Rearrange sts evenly around needles, with one marking beginning of row at centre-heel/sole sts, and the other two marking each end of instep sts. (See instep stich pattern chart below). Repeat instep stitch pattern on instep and stockinet on heel/sole sts until foot is 2in/5cm shorter than your foot length, finishing as follows:

Instep stitch pattern

Round 1 p all sts Round 2 (yfd, k2tog) repeat to end of instep sts Rounds 3-7 k all sts Round 8 (yfd, k2tog, k2) repeat to end of instep sts Rounds 9-13 k all sts Round 14 As round 2 Round 15 p all sts Rounds16-20 As round 2, to makediagonal rib

Stockinet toe

Start of row is at centre of heel/sole sts. Arrange sts with 17 right heel/sole sts on 1st ndl; 34 instep sts on 2nd ndl; 17 left heel sts on 3rd needle. Row I: Knit to last 3 right heel sts, k2tog, k1. On instep sts: k1, ssk, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. On left heel sts: k1, ssk, k to end of round. Row 2: Knit Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 24 sts remain, ending with a knit row: 12 sts on heel needles and 12 sts on instep needle. This makes 20 rows on the toe altogether. Finish toe: Knit across remaining heel sts so that you now have all the sts on 2 needles; 12 sts on each. Graft toe sts together, or do 3-needle cast-off. Darn away yarn ends. 000O000

Chart glossary

(Read each row from R to L, starting with row 1) The leg pattern is a 2-stitch repeat, and the instep pattern is a 4-stitch repeat. Empty box k or knit with main colour yarn Coloured box k with feature or contrast yarn \* p or purl 0 yfwd or yarn forward (YO or yarn over in US) /k2tog or knit 2 together (it may help to substitute ssk on row 15 of leg pattern if attempting to k2tog in eyelash yarn on tiny needles).