Ponchorific
By Wendy Woodhead www.grannymcknitty.com This poncho was knit at my twin sister's request. She was admiring a poncho our younger sister was wearing (store bought) which split at the sides. So off we went to the yarn store where she picked out some Malabrigo in two colours. As I couldn't find a pattern which fulfilled her requirements of a v-neck and split at the sides with a semi attractive multi colour scheme, I decided to make my own. Now, this pattern has lots and lots of stockinette, which can lead to uber boredom, and therefore UFO's, so be forewarned if you attempt this project. It would be good for fairly mindless TV watching though. I watched 2 seasons of True Blood and 2 of Castle throughout the development of this poncho. This poncho, in sport weight and will fit a medium size person. But it would easily fit someone smaller if smaller needles were used (or less increases were made) or bigger, if bigger needles (or heavier yarn) were used, or more increases were made. It can also be made longer, if that is a look you prefer. It can also not be split in half along the side of the body if you prefer a circular fit. I would suggest the two colours to either radically contrast or be semi similar in order to softly blend together. Or use whatever colour chart you like.
Materials
US 5 circular needles Malabrigo Arroyo (approximately 3 skeins of the main colour and 1 of the secondary, more if you are increasing the length) or any other sport weight yarn Stitch markers Tapestry needle Waste yarn Rowcounter Gauge 19 sts and 28 rows = 4 inches in stockinette
Pattern
Cast on 104 sts. Place markers after the 14th, 38"h, 66th and 90th sts. When working flat always slip the first st purlwise. Work garter st for 6 rows(i.e. knit every stitch) You will now be increasing for the arm seams. Row 1: Slip the first stitch purlwise, knit to one st before marker, M1L, K1, SM, K1, M1R, knit to 1 st before second marker, M1L, K1, SM , K1, M1R, continue with remaining 2 markers Row 2: Slip the first st purlwise, K 5 sts, purl to 6 sts before end, K6 Repeat these 2 rows until the V depth that you want is obtained, ending after row 1. I worked 3 inches. Join in the round and place a marker for beginning of round. Maintain the 12 garter edge sts and the increases at the markers on each round 1. Round 1: Knit and increase at markers Round 2: Purl the first 6 sts, K to last 6 sts, P6 Repeat these 2 rounds for 3 repeats. Repeat Round 1. Knit and maintain increases on even rounds 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10. New Round 1: P5 sts, K until last 5 sts, P5 Round 3: P4, until last 4 sts, P4 Round 5:P3, K until last 4 sts, P3 Round 7: P2, K until last 2 sts, P2 Round 9: P1, K until last st, P1 Round 11: Knit Now we will be knitting all the sts for every round. Maintain increases on every even round until you have obtained the width that you would like ending on a non increase round. I increased until the poncho hit about 2 inches down from my shoulders. Find the middle sts between the arm sections (ie between the first 2 increase markers, and the last 2 increase markers) and place markers. These markers will mark the side seams of the poncho. The first new marker will be called side seam marker 1 (SSM 1). The second new marker will become the new beginning of round marker and the original beginning of round marker can be removed. Knit until the new beginning of round marker. Round 1: At new beginning of round marker, P1, K until one st before SSM 1, P1, SM, P1, K until 1 st before beginning of round, P1 Rounds 2, 6 and 10: Knit Round 3: P2, K until two sts before SSM1, P2, SM, P2, K until 2 sts before beginning oi round, P2 Rounds 4, 8 and 12: K and increase at markers as previously stated at arm seams Round 5: p3, K until 3 sts before SSM1, P3, SM, P3, K until 3 sts before beginning of round, P3 Round 7: P4, K until 4 sts before SSM1, P4, SM, P4, K until 4 sts before beginning of round, P4 Round 9: P5, K until 5 sts before SSM1, P5, SM, P5, K until 5 sts before beginning of round, P5 Round 11: P6, K until 6 sts before SSM1, P6, SM, P6, K until 6 sts before beginning of round, P6 You will now have 12 garter edge sts for each side seam and you are no longer increasing. Round 1: Knit Round 2: P6, K until 6 sts before SSM 1, P6, SM, P6, K until 6 sts before end of round, P6 Repeat a total of 3 times. 00 sts in total, 200 sts between each side seam marker for the front and back. Place the back of the poncho onto spare yarn (i.e. the sts between SSM1 and the beginning of round marker). We will now work flat on the front half of the poncho. Row 1: Slip the first st purlwise, K until end, turn Row 2: Slip the first st purlwise, K5, P until the last 6 sts, K6, turn Repeat these 2 rows until about 3 inches above your desired length. If you or the recipient is on the shortish side, like my sister and I, you may want the length to hit around your hips or just below. If you are taller, you can have a much longer length and still maintain an attractive look. Commence the colour chart. If you have less sts than I do then simply subtract half of your balance amount from each end of the colour chart. For example, if you have 190 sts, commence the colour chart 5 sts in from the edge sts and end 5 sts from the edge sts, while maintaining the chart for the edge sts. For the chart, to increase the readability I decided to only show half the sts per row. When you have worked to the center marker simply work backwards along the same row ending on st 1 (and the garter edge sts). When the colour chart is complete, cut the main colour, leaving a tail to weave in, and work in stockinette with your second colour, while maintaining the 6 garter st edges until about half an inch before desired length. Knit 6 rows garter st, slipping the first st purlwise. BO using a stretchy bind off. I used the SSK method. Pick up the sts for the back. Work in stockinette, while maintaining the garter edges and slipping the first st purlwise, until you are about 1.5 inches above where you commenced the colour chart for the front. This is for some visual interest. Work colour chart. Drop the main colour yarn, leaving a tail for weaving in and work stockinette with the second colour while maintaining the garter st edges and slipping the first st purlwise. I knit the back half longer than the front for some interest. Work until half an inch before desired length. Knit 6 rows garter st. BO using a stretchy BO. If you'd like some ties, cut lengths of about 4 feet comprising 18 of the main colour and 6 of the second colour. You will make 6 bunches (and in each bundle you can do 3 main and 1 secondary colour, or bunches of each colour, whatever you want). Decide where you would like to have the ties. Take 3 of the bunches and pull them through the material (you could do a yo there if you want but it's not necessary) halfway. Take the lengths from both sides together and braid them together. Tie off. Weave in ends, block and enjoy.
Abbreviations and Definitions
K=Knit P=Purl St(s)=stitch(es) BO=Bind off SM=Slip marker M1R= Using your left needle, pick up the top strand that goes between the needles from back to front and knit the loop you picked up through the front M1L=Using your left needle, pick up the top strand that goes between the needles from fromt to back and knit the loop you picked up through the back. Stockinette=When working flat, knit all sts on the right side, purl on the wrong side. When working in the round, knit all sts. Garter stitch=When working flat, knit all sts on the right and wrong side. When working in the round, knit the even rounds and purl the odd rounds. SSK bind off=Knit the first 2 sts, Insert the left hand needle into the two stitches on the right hand needle and knit together through the back loops. Knit next st and ssk. Repeat for all sts.
(middle stitchmarker) work backwards from stitch 94 to stitch 1 for each row Colour B (new)
