Afterthought Heels Revisited
A toe-up afterthought heel sock with mini short row gussets by Laura Linneman
Materials:
· 400 yards of fingering weight yarn or yarn that gets a gauge of 7 stitches to the inch in stockinette stitch (Yarn used in sample is Desert Vista Dyeworks Zien in Color Accent Lime) · Size 1.5 (2.5 mm) needles, 2 circulars in 16 inch length. · 2 feet of waste yarn (smooth contrast color crochet cotton is perfect) · 6 coil-less safety pin style stitch markers ·Tapestry Needle Sizes: Medium (8 inches) and Large (9 inches)
The Toe:
Using your preferred cast-on method for toe-up socks (Judy's Magic Cast On was used in the samples above), cast on 32 stitches (16 on each circular needle). Knit across both needles once (1 complete round). Begin to increase the toe as follows: Round 1: \*K1, kf&b, knit until 2 stitches remain on needle, kf&b, kl; repeat from \* for second needle. Round 2: Knit all stitches Repeat these two rounds until the total number of stitches on both needles equals 56 (64). There will be 28(32) stitches on each needle. Knit in stockinette until the foot of your sock is 2 inches less than your desired foot length. Insert heel waste yarn: Knit 28 (32) stitches. Using the waste yarn, knit the remaining 28 (32) stitches. Using the sock yarn, knit the stitches that were worked with the waste yarn again. Leg of the sock: Continue knitting in the round in stockinette (knit every stitch) until the leg of the sock is 2 inches less than the desired height. Ribbing: Round 1: \*K1, P1; repeat from \* across the entire round. Continue to work round 1 of ribbing for 2 inches. Bind off stitches loosely. Recommended bind-offs include Elizabeth Zimmerman's sewn bind-off and Jenny's Surprisingly stretchy bind off.
The Heels:
Using a needle, pick up the right leg of 30 (34) stitches along the bottom of the waste yarn (toe side). You will be picking up the 28 (32) live stitches and 1 stitch on each side. Be careful when picking up stitches to make sure that the orientation of the stitches is not twisted. Flip the sock so that the top of the waste yarn is facing you (cuff side) and repeat the process again. You should now have 60 (68) stitches on your needles. Using the point of a tapestry needle, remove the waste yarn. Join yarn to the right hand side of the bottom needle (needle 1) and begin to work short row mini gusset option or regular heel option.
Short Row Mini Gusset:
Round 1: Knit across all stitches. Short Rows: Japanese short rows are used in the directions below. If you are more comfortable with the standard wrap and turn method, you may use those instead. Short rows will be worked on the sides of the sock. This means you will be using both needles 1 and 2 on both sides. Note: The following rows are all worked over a single round. Row 1: K4, turn, psm. Row 2: S1, P7, turn, psm. Row 3: S1, K5, turn, psm. Row 4: S1, P3, turn, psm. Row 5: S1, K3, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, K2tog, K1, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, K2tog, K 29 (33) stitches, turn, psm. Row 6: S1, P7, turn, psm. Row 7: S1, K5, turn, psm. Row 8: S1, P3, turn, psm. Row 9: S1, K3, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, K2tog, K1, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, K2tog, Knit until 5 stitches remain on needle 2, S1k, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, move slipped stitch back to the left hand needle, K2tog, K1, S1k, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, move slipped stitch back to the left hand needle, K2tog, K1. Round 3: Knit until 5 stitches remain on needle 1, S1k, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, move slipped stitch back to the left hand needle, K2tog, K1, S1k, pull loop on marker and place loop on left hand needle removing the marker, move slipped stitch back to the left hand needle, K2tog, K to the end of the round. Round 4: Knit all stitches. Continue on to the directions for both heels.
Regular Heel:
Knit 4 rounds. Continue on to the directions for both heels.
Both Heels:
Round 1: \*K1, SSK, knit until 3 stitches remain on needle, K2tog, K1; repeat from the \* for needle 2. Round 2: Knit all stitches Repeat rounds 1 & 2 until 14 (16) stitches remain on each needle, ending with round 2. 28 (32) total stitches remain, Kitchener stitches from needle 1 to needle 2. Weave in ends and repeat for second sock.
Abbreviations:
K: Knit K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together Kf&b: Knit into the front and the back of the stitch. P: Purl PSM: Place short row maker by putting the working yarn through the marker and moving it snug to the wrong side of the fabric. S1: Slip 1 stitch purplwise S1k: Slip 1 stitch knitwise SSK: Slip, Slip, Knit the 2 slipped stitches together. Helpful Links: Judy's Magic Cast-on http://www.theknitgirllls.com/wordpress/index.php/2011/07/tutorial-series-twisted german-cast-on-judys-magic-cast-on-and-threading-beads-with-superfloss/ Picking up the stitches on an afterthought heel: http://www.theknitgirllls.com/wordpress/index.php/2011/03/tutorial-series afterthought-heel/ JapaneseShort Rows https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qR6IgBRcV5Y www.craftsy.com also has a free class on short rows. This has a wonderful section on Japanese short rows.
