Shar-Pei Fingerless Mitts Knitting Pattern with Tuck Stitch and Tubular Bind Off Instructions

Shar-Pei Fingerless Mitts

ckinette stitch but long for a bit more challenging knit and a more sophisticated loo

MATERIALS

· Fleece Artist Nova Sock (100% merino 325m/112g - 355yds/4 oz) - I used about 60 grams · 3mm needles / US 2 % for knitting in round - dpns, 2 circulars or 1 circular for magic loop, etc. · Cable needle or spare needle to pick up stitches when doing a tuck (optional) · 2 safety pins for tuck stitch pattern (optional but recommended - you could also use 2 or 4 stitch markers, paper clip like or split ring, ones you can use to mark the stitch rather than a place on a needle - see instructions for tuck stitch for more detail) · 1 or 2 stitch markers to mark the thumb gusset increases (optional) · 1 stitch marker to mark the beginning of the round (optional) I recommend downloading a detailed photo tutorial for tuck stitch - it's available for free after registration at www.silkandwool.eu. SIZES One size - women's M, GAUGE 24 sts and 48 rounds = 10 cm/4 in

ABBREVIATIONS

K-knit P-purl M1 - make stitch using your preferred increase method. I picked up the bar between to stitches and knitted it through the back loop. Swyif - slip the stitch as if to purl with the working yarn passing in front of the stitch Swyib - slip the stitch as if to purl with the working yarn passing behind of the stitch STITCHPATTERNS Tubular stitch In round, over even number of stitches Round 1. (K1, swyif) Round 2. (Swyib, p1) Repeat rounds 1 and 2

Tuck stitch

In this pattern, you knit together stitches from the current row with stitches from several rows below. There are several ways to do that, and to mark the stitches to be knitted together with later on. I will describe the method I used. There is a detailed tutorial complete with photos available on www.silkandwool.eu for free after simple registration. Note, that the stitches you need to mark are in rounds 5 and 21. But because it's easier to mark them in the next round, the instructions appear in rounds 6 and 22. Round 6. (K5. Mark the five stitches you've just knit in the previous round. You can use a safety pin or two stitch markers, k 19) twice. Rounds 7-15.Knit. Round 16. (Knit first five stitches together with the respective five stitches from round 5 that you have marked, k19) twice. I recommend using a cable needle, or any extra needle of an appropriate size to pick up those stitches from row 5, and knit them together with current stitches as you would when doing a three-needle bind-off. Round 22. (K17. Mark the last five stitches you've just knit in the previous round. You can use a safety pin or two stitch markers, k 7) twice. Rounds 23-31.Knit Round 32. (K12. Knit the next five stitches together with the respective five stitches from round 21 that you have marked, k7) twice.

INSTRUCTIONS

You can use any method for knitting in round that you prefer. The pattern does not mention how to divide stitches between needles for that reason - to make it universal Cast on 48 sts. Join in round, making sure that stitches are not twisted. Knit8rounds intubularstitch. Knit next 48 rounds in tuck stitch pattern (1.5 full repeats = 3 tucks vertically). From round 57 start increases for thumb gusset, continuing in tuck stitch pattern. The tucks should be aligned with the previous ones, so the stitches that will be knitted together should move according to increases. For gusset, youll be increasing 2 stitches (one on each side of the gusset) every 3rd row. R57:k8 (you can place a markerhere ifyou wish), m1, k1, m1,(PM2-optional),ktillend (= 50 sts) R 58-59: knit R 60: k8 (slip marker if you have one), m1, k3, m1 (now slip marker2 if you have one),ktil end (= 52 sts) R 61: knit R 62: knit. If you follow my method for marking tuck stitches, knit 21 sts, mark the last five stitches you have knitted on the previous round, k24, mark the last five stitches you have knitted on the previous round, knit till end. R 63: k8, m1, k5, m1, knit till end (= 54 sts) R 64-65: knit R 66: k8, m1, k7, m1, knit tllend (= 56 sts) R 67-68: knit R 69: k8, m1, k9, m1, knit till end (= 58 sts) R 70-71: knit R 72: k8, m1, k11, m1, k3, knit next 5 stitches together with the marked stitches from 10 rows below (=tuck), k19, knit next 5 stitches as a tuck, knit till end. (= 60 sts) R 73-74: knit R 75: k8, m1, k13, m1, knit till end(= 62 sts) R 76-77: knit R78: knit. If you follow my method for marking tuck stitches, k5, mark the last five stitches you have knitted on the previous round, k3, m1, k15, m1 ,k20, mark the last five stitches you have knitted on the previous round, knit till end. (= 64 sts) R 79-80: knit R 81: k8, m1, k17, m1, knit till end (= 66 sts) R 82: knit R 83: k8, bind off 19 sts, cast on 1 st, knit till end (= 48 sts). Knit until round 104 including in pattern. You should now have 3 full repeats of tuck pattern. Knit next 4 rows in stockinette stitch (108 rounds) Knit next 8 rows in tubular stitch (116 rounds). Bind off. I recommend sewn tubular bind off. There's a video here - http://www.knittinghelp.com/video/play/tubular-bind-off

CHARTS

The following charts will help you make the mitts. As these are knitted in round, you need to read all rows of the chart from right to left. The stitches you need to mark are the black squares. The stitches you'll be knitting them together with are marked in gray. The pink squares are no-action - these are there to keep the chart readable, and represent NO action - just skip those when reading the chart. The column of stitches marked in yellow is the central stitch of the thumb gusset - no need to do anything, marked it for your convenience. Chart 2 explains the thumb gusset part. Abbreviations used: m1 - make one stitch using your preferred increase method Bo-bindoffonestitch Bc1 - bind off one stitch, cast on 1 stitch. The numbers in the boxes represent the actual stitch count for that round. @Leyla Alieva 2011. You may use the pattern to knit items for any purpose if the designer is credited. You may not publish this design or any part of it without the consent of the author. www.silkandwool.eu